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Power steering pump, with low fluid levels they whine just as yours I'd doing. Worth having a look over the pas system, see if there's a leak

Purely just to see if there is any noticeable difference between fluids, I honestly can't fault typ200 but with the reviews I've seen regarding rbf600/660 I think it's worth a try to see. Wasn't typ200 sold as supergold previously @-Jamie-? Maybe I'm getting confused though, it's easy done...

Superblue has been discontinued and been replaced with typ200 and is now the normal yellow/amber sort of colour, I use it on track personally and haven't had any issues although it's all I've ever used so can't compare. I will probably switch to motul rbf next time though. Can't comment on...

Pop them out and reseal with some silicone sealant, should sort the issue

As far as I know they are all the physically the same size, but obviously as you've already mentioned there are different styles across the clio range

Have you checked front wheel bearings for any play?

I assume you've been looking at a 12v usb socket? If so wire it up to an ignition switched power feed rather than permanent live, that way it'll only work with ignition on (for example the yellow power wore on stereo is ignition switched)

Got some of those too

Yeah they're seat belt mounts, m10x1.5 thread I believe Ive got plenty of bolts kicking about, can post some up if you need some

Just normal power steeing fluid as far as I know

I had a golf do this and it turned out to be the pump, I assume he's put a new pump on?

I use brembo pads from euro for on the road, a little more expensive than pagid at 27 quid, more than adequate for road driving though soon find their limit if you spend any time on track

Should come as a complete cable with the outer plastic casing already attached, best off slackening the adjuster off on the handbrake lever then put new cable in, I normally attach to rear brake assembly first and then into handbrake, finally adjusting handbrake to suit

Go into parts for sale at at the very top of the page is the group buy section

Cigarette lighter should be incorporated into the same fuse as audio, so assuming your radio is working then the fuse will be ok, does the ring around the lighter illuminate when lights are on? For the boot light could there could be a couple of reasons for it playing up, possible loose...

Yeah jack it up and check, rotate the wheel and see if there's any roughness or excessive noise in the bearing and go from there

Have a look in the group buy section, there's a guy that makes them @bristolnate is his name

I guess if you have all the original sensors then theoretically everything would work as normal? I am purely speculating mind as I have no previous experience. I ran 12v direct live from the battery in through the bulkhead to the ecu and then earthed om one of the bolts for the metal dash...

If you still have your old loom you can save you self some trouble by using the old power/earth connector to the epas ecu, rather than having to run new wiring through the dash

Indeed there is, type in EPAS on a 172 cup, either in the search bar on here or on google and it'll take you straight to it :)

You can run epas on a 172 as some have done (including me) I assume your original car had epas rather than hydraulic steering? You'll need a variable controller from eBay such as item 180984984338 and then follow the included instructions to fit

I have one of these for drivers side if it helps? Came with cobra subframe (for 172) but as I'm running full harnesses it's just sat around collecting dust

You can still use the 172 rack if you want but you'll need to blank off the 4 outlets where the hoses go and then make a bridge pipe to go on the middle of the rack. If you get the variable assist from the guy on ebay it'll come with an electrical diagram, such as item 180984984338 that is...

Electric steering column with ecu, can either use your original steering rack with a little modifying or rack from dci, you'll need variable assistance controller from eBay (I'll find you a link in a bit) then some power/earth wiring and a way of fusing the There are many threads on here with...

So did I the other day, I'd assumed people had got blanks direct from Renault

Assuming you have access to diagnostics I'd swap the sensor with the drivers side one and recheck fault codes (believe drivers side side impact sensor is df179) I'd this is the case then you'll need to replace the sensor, if not then it will indeed be a wiring fault

180 is the passenger side crash sensor. This is bolted to the sill with 2 10mm bolts, it's a rectangular black box with 2 wires going in to it, might get lucky and just unplug and re connect or may have to replace the sensor

Afraid so yeah as far as I know, not sure if Renault could do anything though? I know when I worked for Mercedes many moons ago we could only reset or alter mileage figures on a car that was new and had done less than 80 miles (something silly like that, basically so that the counter read zero...

Assuming it's not digital climate control, has the cable operating the heat mixture come off? Have a look in drivers footwell to the left of the pedals, should see 2 cables, 1 for heat mix and the other to set where the air comes out

I ran my clio ph2 at combe a couple of weekends ago, mine is totally standard with well worn suspension. I ran with uniroyals on in the morning and the car felt very unstable, then put 888's on for the afternoon and noticed a massive difference immediately, I was able to push much much more...