Search results

Looks pretty complete to be honest, 60mm would be correct for 182 cup as well. I ended up replacing the bolts that hold the bottom of the shock to the hub and also the top spring cups (top hats some people call them), mine were pretty corroded and they're not all that expensive from Renault...

It's more than likely it's the LED bulbs causing the light to come on/stay on, the current draw for the lighting system would be affected and being French it'll play havoc, pop the original bulbs back in and I'm 99.9% certain it'll cure the issue, I've read many similar stories with LED bulbs...

You've got the main idea when it comes to cambelt change but this may also help http://www.cliosport.net/threads/cambelt-auxbelt-dephaser-pulley-guide.437872/

my mate's 182 was doing this, would occasionally throw on the engine light (bottom right hand corner), was the pre cat lambda playing up

Certainly looks like the right one to me

If they've not been off in a while you may have to be a little persuasive as the arms have a tendency to corrode onto the wiper linkage

I'd recommend one of these personally, I've used a few and these seem to have better purchase on the arm.

Excellent, struggled to find one online though as everything seemed to be in Russian. I'm sure Renault will stock them still

Ok I'm home from work now and have had a chance to have a better look, open this link and it's item 5 (that's d4f engine which I believe yours is)...

These are the ones for the sport engines but I believe theyll fit all 16v?? Google the part numbers and see mate

No problems, change the switch and I'm 99.9% certain it'll sort the drivers window too :smile:

The yellow wires are power, so yellow and grey together and the yelow and white, have you checked to make sure there is power getting to the switch?

Do the bolt holes between the subframe and chassis line up?

There'll be 6 wires, 4 should be thicker than the other 2 and should be in pairs colour wise (I hope) bridge them so the colours match. According to my wiring diagram it's pins 2+3 for one wire and 5+6 the other. I think one should be white and the other grey, may well have an orange stripe too

If you've got any spare wire lying around you can bridge the passenger switch contacts on the drivers side to supply power to the passenger side switch. Of the swith then works you know where some of the problems are

They're only meant to go on one way but it's a round plugs it's possible. I'd honestly start with the switches as they're very common to play up, if you're handy with a multimeter then you'll soon see where the problem lies If you're anywhere near Gloucester I'd be more than happy to take a...

Sounds like the wiring plug on drivers side motor is on the wrong way round, the passenger side is wired through the drivers side switches. It's more than likely the switch pack playing up on drivers side, I'd start off by checking the switches before changing the uch/ecu etc etc

From memory all the tensioners are the same, so you wouldn't need to find another sport, a 1.2 or dci would do

I would have thought the airbag warning lamp will stay lit unless the tensioners are replaced? As for where to get them from, scrapyard, breakers, somebody on here etc etc. They are readily available

Pretty certain my old prolines used to touch, there was definetely a noticeable wear line on the lower coils

Should be fuse 8 in the engine bay fuse box

Looks better and better every time I stop by, although I much prefer the oz's you had originally. I've just had to do my cambelt again, after a so called specialist decided tippex was a better idea than locking tools

Press and hold number 6 for approx 10 seconds, should beep and start working

Give 7179 a go ;)

Can't edit the above but should be 7/16 unf thread sorry

Meeeeee but you already know that @Jimbob 2705

Most anchor points are 7/16 information thread (imperial sizing) although the retaining bolt for front belts on the sill is M10 (metric) virtually all harnesses are supplied with 7/16 fittings. I run my shoulder belts direct onto rollcage and have the lap/crotch belts secured using spreader...

Haven't got any pics to hand but along each rear 1/4 will be a pair of wires, one blue and one brown from memory with a white plug on that clips into the rear belt inertia mechanism. Resistor need to go into the white plug across the two wires You'll need to remove some of the plastic trims in...

I did mine on the one a bit further in, where your come of the one way system by sainsburys. I had the red vtr with audi black trim and wheels

2 roundabouts in the middle of devizes by any chance? Had a golf destroy a cv joint there a couple of years ago. Off topic you didn't used to have a blue saxo years ago did you? Ads