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Ok, they're not open until Mon, but I have to go down with a re test anyway, i'll see what I can find out regarding a RR day sort of thing, see if there's enough interst on here to organise one

Can't argue with the 200 piece set, especially if Halfords have a sale on, I have one for the car, comes in really handy for scrap yard visits rather than taking the more expensive stuff with me

Apologies i know its a few months ago but did you guys manage to arrange a RR in the end? I only ask as I use M-Tec quite a lot and may be able to have a word with the guys down there if needed Ads

Flare the sides using a hammer and a punch so that it grips against itself?

That's right, the loom separates in the gap between the door and bodywork and there's a torx screw holding the plug in place on the bottom of the pillar, if I remember right you have to take the sliding locking piece off the connection as well otherwise it won't pull back through the bodywork...

In short yes, but I believe the sports have the sensor on the side of the engine rather than on radiator, hence why yours is blanked off?

I imagine the white plug would be a coolant temp sensor, but to be honest I've not looked at the way it's setup, only thing that springs to mind is if ones for ph1 and the other ph2?

No reason why it shouldn't be, only a case of extending wiring through to the dash, it's on my list of things to be done

I use manual mirrors on mine, and am looking at relocating switches onto dash somewhere, not sure where just yet but probably where radio used to be. I've seen some with switches by the handbrake too

For the money that's being asked for it I'd probably opt to buy a well looked after track orientated cup with a stack of receipts and history, may not have the bhp figures of a 225 conversion but chances are it'll still be going and be reliable for much longer.

I can echo what @Mash. has said in that I remember seeing it on CSOC on Facebook but didn't read what was being said, could have been good or bad??. For me personally having seen the kind of problems that can occur with engine conversions in general I'd do my own rather than buy one that's been...

Yep that's it, and yeah forget clamping the return off to begin with, I think it'll do more damage than good, there is a little rubber link just above the t piece of the return should you need to clamp

I've just had another look, shouldn't need to clamp either yellow or green, in fact don't clamp them or you'll fracture the lines. Pop off the 4 u shaped links off the injectors and connect up your test kit, that should be enough, if it's not send me another message and do some more head scratching

I'm sure there's bits I've missed off, but its a start for you

10,13,17,19mm sockets, range of torx (star) inc 20,30,45,50,55, a jack, drill for rivets on side skirts, range of screwdrivers, just for starters, maybe a grinder for the centre bolt on rear seats as they normally round off

My pipes are around 4mm internal diameter but are a few years old now so I'd go with 3mm personally, I know halfords do washer pipe which would be fine, somewhere else may do also Where the main line meets the pump there is the return from the injectors, this may need clamping off but be...

I'll have a look now at the pipe size, I've also got 2 dci's on the drive so I'll take a look and get a photo for you

It's not the easiest to see but it looks like (and should have) clamped off the return from spill/leak offs on injectors to the main fuel system, the idea being that you need to stop the flow of excess diesel back into the fuel system and 'force' it into your test rig in order to accurately...

I'm hoping to be. Will probably go for class E too, not sure if the car will be ready for the first meeting yet but if it's not I'll be there anyway

Doesn't mean you don't have abs, my sport is an 02 plate which has the early gearbox and abs as well

I'm not 100% on the non sport setups, but for the sports there were a couple of options. The earlier ph2 sports and the cup versions (as they don't have abs) have jc129 gearboxes, which use a speed sensor attached to the gearbox as in the photo above Later ph2's ran with jc130 gearbox which...

Slides out to the left as you're looking at it, they are tight but if you pull where the ridges are it will come apart, as it loosens the plug will start to drop as it's got a groove inside to make sure the pins align properly

Have you taken the plug off and reconnected? Might be that the pins are corroded and where you've done all the other work its pulled the wiring putting the light on

I do indeed, as it's only 5 minutes to check, at least then you can rule that out, I've always tried to eliminate as much as I can that's easy to check before ripping half the interior out. It's probably not leaking from the rear but it's worth checking to be sure

They can be a pain, top up in the strut tower first? I had to get a spare pair of hands and roll the hub forward and back to get one side in

The heater box is a pain to remove (at least it is on a ph2) as most of the dash needs to come out, might be worth lifting the rear as its easier to get loose than the front just to make sure nothings running from the back. Assuming its not running forward then check things like door seals are...

Have you taken up the carpets too see if there's any signs inside where the leak is coming from? Is your car normally sat level or on a slope?

Just checking lol, injector loom isn't damaged by any chance is it?

You sure you've changed no 1? Renault number them back to front so no 1 will be gearbox end

Neither of mine work at the moment (my choice though lol) As you said it should be the two left and right arrow symbols for the fuses, hopefully that's all that is wrong