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No it won't be that, really needs two people to set gear linkage. Follow the Pure Motorsport setting up guide for doing it, you will get it on there site.

Yeah they do that, its just harmonic vibration, it will come and go as you rev it up and down. I would personally advise a small drive just to check the noise out further.

I'm not sure that's true Phil, I'm sure a few more company's make them but I have yet to spend the time ordering the parts to find out, I have a hunch its just Kangoo van inners that 172 cups need. That's what them Firstline ones I gave you a number for were listed under at most places.

Car taking a knock before? No signs of rippling along the front cross member/chassis leg, it will go wavy on the front edge of the cross member. I wouldn't be overly bothered about half a degree difference in camber for the rear on a road car and I wouldn't buy a new beam if you are worried...

For the sake of £10-£20 I would just get a new one, if you have to do it again in a few months you'll be even more pissed with it. Driving it with a dodgy release bearing wont cause any damage, have you pulled back the little rubber boot on clutch fork and checked its seated ok and also driven...

Alright Sonny, anyone would have replaced the release bearing so its just one of those things. If the car is in drivable condition there's no harm in driving it for a while and see if the problems still present, just make sure all fluid levels are right first. You do have to drain the gearbox...

If you are chopping and changing heads, pistons etc to get a good engine note the cam covers are matched to the head so can't be swapped.

Adding to phase1sr's list you been as well buying a bottom end gasket set too and refreshing all that while your at it. Includes crank, sump, oil pump cover seals and a few other seals too. Works out only a few more £'s than a sump seal is individually.

Right enough

Chip I still don't see how this has any affect on stopping a supercharged engine slip the timing when all the extra load is put through the aux pulley. If the aux pulley was keyed I would see a benefit, if the crank sprocket moves then its game over anyway as you have just said above with it...

Some brake cleaner and blow out with an airline should do the job. I would remove the battery's while doing so as a precaution.

Top of the gearbox where it joins to the engine like the 1*2 I would think. Cleaning a TDC sensor is a pointless task anyway unless the electrical connection has become corroded or has water ingress.

I'm sure K-Tec have fitted and not fitted in some cases a keyed aux pulley for the boost brigade.

Pretty much all track rod ends that are listed against a clio 1*2 will fit all models it just depends which manufacturer is the best quality as Phil said.

Yeah its similar but nothing is keyed on the Clio, its all done on bolt tension. Plus you need the cam locking tool as the cam pulley torque is so high that it bends all other tools if not used. You really need it to move to time it right and without the oil pump spinning its game over anyway...

One word 'Millington'

If thats a reply to my question mate then that only applys to a supercharged car with a keyed aux pulley and not a keyed crank pulley. The crank pulley pictured above should move in order to time the engine with any accuracy. Its not your usual crank pulley arrangement as said loads in this...

Yeah don't have that luxury beside me. These will fit if your struggling. Made by Firstline

As said they will give exchange (credit note) after grace period but make sure they get sent recorded as my track rods I sent back went "missing"

My understanding is the opposite from yours as the 'inner cog' needs to move in order to time the engine with any accuracy (it does on the clio's anyway) The aux pulley is what you wanted keyed for a supercharger as that is what's driving it. The power in an engine comes from the pistons...

Yeah all it does is stop the crank aux pulley from spinning, there are three pieces that attach to the Clio F4r crank on the timing belt side, 4 if you include the bolt. Oil pump gear, timing belt gear and then the auxiliary pulley which is the only one that will be stopped from spinning by...

If you have arch liners its behind the bit that has most likely been rubbing/rubbed away at the bumper wing joint. You could try raising a little first though if you don't mind going higher.

You must be exhausted after all that time ;)

Wont make a bit of difference, it won't stop the timing slipping or the oil pump for that case if the bolt loosens. The only benefit it has is on a supercharged engine where the pulley is being used to drive something non oem.

Flol....Solves most things along with swear words and a dab of spit

On the road cars it heads off to the carbon canister underneath the car. For the fuelling problem I would also pop off your filler neck at the tank and check the non return ball is moving.

I take it you know the starter is in good condition and not bound up, checked the signal wire to the solenoid and gave the starter a tap while trying to turn it over?

This might help you http://www.setpromotion.com/trade/index.php?c=renaultsport

Have the injectors been swapped around and if so were they coded. Iirc Clio's run a Delphi fuel system and the ecu needs to know the codes in order to run. P2p codes are written on the side of the injectors and are 16 or so letters long. You say you kept the injectors with the original car, did...

The paint will need keyed for the Schutz I dare say but Schutz itself needs no prep in order to paint over. It will advise on the tin though.