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So over the last few days I have detailed the car, probably the only one it will get so spent a while doing it. I like to take the first clean in my ownership to extremes so that its easier to keep up. I also fitted some new badges, wipers and the CS clobber. I'm still waiting on new b pillar...
Hhhmmm not sure, if it was a single line to the bias/compensator valve and then split to 2 then you would have to bleed both rears at the same time.
Have a look at Northloop's recomendations.
Having a solid plate also acts as a subframe stiffener which is well needed on a Clio, you want (if the worst happens) to be bending wishbones not the frame.
You might beg to differ Andrew as I bet your arm was sold in order to buy your cars arms.
If they flop about and you can easily shift them through the ball joints allowable movement they are well worth replacing, you will never simulate the forces that occur out on the road.
Edit: Think how they work, even if its 0.5mm movement then that is basically like setting your car up with...
Does the size of these racks not bother anyone else, I can't help but think you would be replacing them monthly on a racecar. Its got pressed steel mounting points FFS.
Hope it works out for you Phil, will be another possible combo (hopefully the same as a sport) for the clio's
Do you think that's up to rallying though, its only like 1mm pressed steel, would need a good bit of 'beefing' up to be good, no?
Didnt get a chance to measure last night Andrew but I'll post them in here for others ref. as well
Only you can tell really as the cars in front of you and you can see clearances needed etc.
Although I have fitted 20mm to the front of my 172 cup and get slight scrubbing on the bumper bracket on full lock and pushing on (that's with Eibach sportlines too) You will be able to get away with...
No reason why it won't work, you have been bolting your wheels to these spacers with bolts right :S
Whats the difference with the studs?!?!? They have 10-12mm shank much like how a standard bolt would penetrate into any Clio hub or spacer.
I'll do that later on tonight mate when I'm home, they are just basically cable tied onto the small support that bridges from the subframe to chassis leg and a small bolt at the front.
I found mine fitted best by putting the tab behind as it contacted the subframe mount otherwise.
These are what genuine ones look like and are made of fibreglass, personally Ally would be better as it can be bent back after a trip threw the gravel in my case. I have a few sets to get threw...
You may want to put that tab that you have secured with 2 bolts behind the bumper as it gives better angle for the ducting.
I await a full update with more pics and vids of g/box, lower arms etc etc :)
It just goes over the the stub before the disk goes on, it is profiled so that the inner radius of the stub axle and the flat face of the cassette bearing meat correctly and allow proper support for the bearing, most remove the disks without realising that they stick to the back due to grease...
Depends what you want, I usually pay that little extra for cars when there minty and the right spec. I would personally part with that for a nice well maintained 172. Age doesn't affect the paintwork rust wise due to being galvanised so you can buy that older car and still have a nice example...
The one posted isn't that desirable due to being a hatchback, lovely cars though.
If anyone is seriously wanting one as a project A friend is selling one with full group A kit that needs some attention.
Ahright fair enough, I only seen threads or mentions for Bedford and Llandlow which I wouldn't really class as a circuit in the proper sense. I did see your Europe trip too. My words were wrong maybe, I guess you could say circuits that the likes of BTCC follow, premier circuits in the UK but...