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The last water pump I had done was fitted at a Renault dealership 5 years previously. It had only done 28k miles . The cheeky b******s had used a none genuine pump . It was rattling and screeching it's tits off.
I'm off to Birchdown next week for a few jobs. 3 hour round trip but at least I know...
I like a good spirited drive and never had any problems. They are no more dusty than other pads I've used over the years.
The worst pads and most costly were mintex 1144's. What a waste of money they were. They were embarrassing the amount of squealing when slowing down at traffic lights.
Are you looking for pads for the track and road? If you're looking for pads for the road I can highly recommend TRW GDB1405 for the fronts and TRW GDB1305 for the rears.
I've been running these for years now after I needed some " emergency " brake pads and had to buy some from a local motor...
I always leave the shims in, the pads move better with them in imo . Just give everything a good clean and make sure the pads move freely and you shouldn't have any problems.
If you have squealing that's probably due to the compound of the pad. Mintex 1144's squeal like a b**ch.
You have 2 air inlet pipes to the airbox.
One from the side and one from underneath
One pipe runs down into the wheel arch and has the acoustic valve on the end the other just runs to a piece of the bodywork like in the pic and gets air from the area behind the headlight , next to the battery.
The battery should be around 12.6v for a good battery. After leaving your lights on for a few minutes it'll probably drop ever so slightly.
9.66v is very very low. So it's either not charging or it's knackered.
With the engine running if the alternator is working the battery should be around...
I know it's covered in s**t and its probably rusty as f**k . If it were me I'd get 2 new bolts to put back in.
Give the other end of the bolt a good soaking in WD40 beforehand.
https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/parts/service-parts/renault-dacia-pollen-filter-8201370532-8671018403/
You'll probably be able to get one alot cheaper from ECP if you search for one of those part numbers.
I'm not sure if cup shocks will fit , I don't see why they wouldn't. Less than 66 quid here.
https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/parts/steering-suspension/renault-clio-172-182-rear-shock-absorber-cup-version/
Or Phase 1 rear shocks , same price...
My original " Yozza" when I had it decatted. It's not got the decat now , it was only slightly louder when it did.
The decat made absolutely no difference to performance.
The Yozza never came with a centre silencer. It's not the best video it's alot deeper in real life.
I've seen people who had a blocked Cat saying they are lacking power. Not sure if that's the problem you're having as ya say , higher revs and its ok.
I guess the only way to tell is if you can get your hands on another Cat just to try or even a decat.
I've seen it so many times over the years . Usually a new member.
They put up a post asking for information or how to solve a problem then never return.
Very strange.
Or you get the other CS phenomenon.
Ask for advice and do totally opposite lol.
I assume when you say 3rd gear" scratch "you mean " crunch "?
It seems like it's quite common.
If you search on here or Google Clio 172 3rd gear crunch you'll find alot of information about it.
The buzzing sound is normal when you turn the key to position 1 . I think Its just the fuel pump priming.
Mine was the earth from the battery but I also bought a new earth strap for the gearbox to chassis. It was only about 8 quid from Eurocarparts. The original wasn't actually in that bad of...
You mean the top of the top mounts , where the nut sits inside ?
Some fine emery cloth then treat with your BH then some cold galv spray.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-zinc-galvanising-spray-paint-silver-400ml/40801
I can't hear your recording.
When you turn the key to position 1 all the lights come on then go out after a couple of seconds. The only lights that should remain on are Battery, Stop and Handbrake. Then when you turn the ignition on to start the engine all the lights go off, handbrake obviously...
You might be right . The 1 on the left is definitely the same as I had on my ph2 172 and the same as my 182.
When searching for 182 rear calipers you do see the one on the right come up in the search. I think the only difference is the arm for the handbrake cable.
Like @hipwell said, the one on the left is the original.
I got replacement calipers from Autodoc / onlinecarparts made by Ridex. I paid £46 each delivered. They're identical to original parts...
Last aux belt was changed April 2017 ( 17k miles ago )at Birchdown. That was after a fiasco at a local garage after problems with my alternator. They'd damaged the tensioner so went to Birchdown had a the full aux kit fitted.
The car was off the road for nearly 8 months , garaged and sorned...