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I've fitted a new pump and added a temporary fuel pressure gauge to the end of the rail to monitor pressure while it's on the rollers. Justnow its showing 3.5 bar and seems steady under light load. Apart from that I've not touched the car apart from moving it off the trailer as I needed it to...

Thanks I'm loving it so far. I think it was a crazy drive option , the one on my car is just a decal as the previous owner wants sure if he wanted it painted on or not. The badges on the wings were something like a £2500 option aswell crazy. I know somone that has a Pista on order with almost...

I don't have any other pics of the fiesta but its a local car , from memory its genuine Msport arch kit on it . It was a new local show so probably not much on the ford forms , hopefully it will become an annual thing as it has the making of a good show.

the mk 1 was my car of the show the finish on it was brilliant , also love Stu. 's red escort cos. The orion is my mate Davies , he's had it for over 10 years always a clean well presented car.

I ended up at a new local event called Fords In The Park held at lochore medows. Was a brilliant venue for a static show , with a good mix of old and new cars and stuff for all the family to do.

This is my worry with this style roll center kit (i have the same kit fitted) over the one that Northloop does, Im sure they decided to go with a pressed fit into the hub for this very reason. Was there any play on the ball joint taper on the old hub that could of caused stress at the pinch...

Correction he has to sell Neil those wheels , it would look far better on a set of silver Chomodoras, black 1.2's, white 1.2's anyway dont you think John :)

Same as mine then so you should still have 2 aux inputs free on the dash2 plug 1, i use one of them for fuel level. Wheel speed input would go onto the brown wire on plug 1 pin 8 , taking a 5v ref from the grey wire on plug 2 pin 9

Im the same I HATE wiring . I found the easiest way to have the kill switch working when on standalone was to use one of the smaller terminal pairs on the back of the kill switch to kill the ignition feed to the ECU , this in turn kills the fuel pump and ignition.

are you using the serial input to the dash for info from your ECU ? or are you using dedicated sensors into the aux ports on the dash ? I have a DL1 logger im not using , that has a gps that i think can be configured as a speedo but uses the same plug as the ecu interface.

How I did my dash 2 speed pick up , simply picks up on the driveshafts bolts. If you have clearance you could put a clip around the inner joint and use that as a pick up or as Gary says use the old abs point. How is your kill switch wired is it the ECU ignition switch or direct through your coil.

Yes mate due our first one mid Oct , that's why i'm pushing to get my car done to at least get a few trackdays out of it beforehand.

WOW congrats Neil :) Looks like that will be two green clios parked up next year while we get on with the next stage of life .

Wow dream spec ? Do you know what ignition cut delay you are running for the flat shift. We played it safe at 110ms on mine but have hear of people using as low as 80.

I did have a larger Brian James but like you say storage was an issue as my garage isn't very deep. One thing i did like with it was the low level tyre rack as it aloud you to work on the car while on the trailer , with a high level you cant open the bonnet.

It will fit but very tight width wise at the front depending on wheel offset , my tyres basically touch at both sides. If your lucky you can also get them with a folding hitch which saves more space when its in storage. It tows behind my X3 brilliantly even with spare wheels in the rack.

That would explain why i have slightly less issues with bonnet clearance on the filter :)

Well things didnt go to plan today but in a good way I guess. After changing the injectors to qure the low down stutter , I wanted the map checked. Instantly the AFR was different ,so started to adjust the map and re scale the TPS to give good low down throttle control. The car was making less...

Had the car in for alignment today took it to a local place I've used in the past with a hunter machine, so haven't had it weighed or corner weighted justnow. Looks like the cup racer lower arms dont give any more static caster than the regular cup road car ones, they just have a uprated bush...

Good post alot of useful info in there . The mounts have the engine at the same height but it is mounted to the subframe , guess this is to help with the shift on the sequential gearbox and also makes it quicker to remove the engine by dropping the subframe.

Think that's the car now ready for alignment. Eventually got the dash2 set up with all sensors working and speedo pick up fitted. I still have to calibrate the fuel sensor but the tank is full justnow.

Little more done today with a v band and flexi fitted to the manifold. Badly need to re do the heat lagging on the bottom section of the manifold. But the exhaust now seals up well and little less vibration in the car.

Hi Scott yip out on the 3rd to give it a run but will be more of a test/shakedown. It's not much of a change but the actual bush design is better so will have less play. Cup top Cup racer bottom The inside as it sits justnow , but if anyone knows of a lhd dash top. I have a plan for the inside

What finish were they Craig always liked them on tour car

Black 1.2's Silver sparco chronos

I fitted one of the cup racer lower arms tonight to the passenger side. Without getting a before and after alignment I wouldn't say there looks to be a big change to the caster over my old polybushed cup bottom arm. I do think they may be slightly longer though. Before After

The new owner LOVES a phase 1