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Yeh it give a good bit more room. I did think about chopping out the frame work on the inner wing , but decided to keep it so could put a standard engine/box back in if needed.

I would guess it was done on the cup cars to ease engine removal and also clear access for working in the bay. Plus with the sequential box you really need the engine solid mounted To drop the engine its now probably a 25 min job once the car is in the air.

Decided the engine bay needed a bit more colour.

I got it as part of a group buy on fb , sorry I cant mind who made them.

Balanced the bodies this morning with a syncrometer. Took the car for a quick test run and still a stutter at 2k but then it pulls clean and really revs with the gearing. 7000 rpm flat shifts :cool::cool::love::love: Gave the car its first wash in over a year.

I'm not sure Zach but looking at the mounting points I think it should increase is a fair bit. May fit them tomorrow so will get before and after pics, the car still needs alignment aswell.

Got my ECU back from Omex after a firmware update, plugged it in and straight away the revs and water temp were working on the dash. Plans for this week is to pull it off the trailer , balance the bodies and see if it cures the power dip at 2000rpm. If that doesn't work I going to switch the...

Looks very clean , an ideal start to a project. Did the shell come with the dash top ? I noticed on FB when Chris had parts up that it had a Sadev gear display .

Sad to hear Andy but sounds like it's for the best. Get the fancy bits sold off, spend a weekend putting a standard loom and engine back in and enjoy the summer in the car. Let's face it the way things are going with clios , in a few years a decent standard car will be worth more and be more...

I dont sorry i just made it to shape around the manifold out of some Nimbus sheet.

Yes having no mounts or fusebox in the way makes access easy I just wish I had a bulkhead multi plug on the engine harness as would make taking the engine and box out a 20 min job as its all on the subframe.

Yip know that feeling .. Still hoping to get mine out at some point this year , but booked the R8 on a track day next month instead.

I was in the same position a couple of years ago , had a big spec exige that was good on track but too expensive to bin. Went back to a clio as a budget track toy that has now blown the budget, but the good thing with clios is parts are cheap and worst case of a roll / crash parts could be...

My old Exige had up rated cables but , Know some people just wrapped them in heat tape to stop them sticking. Also check your dogbone mount they can go soft and cause gear issues.

Thanks a lot looks like the Race Technology temp/pressure sensors come with 1000ohm resistors pre wired so will go with a 150ohm on the fuel level sensor

Thanks ive got 4 sensors from the 5v , oil temp, oil press, fuel level and gear position but can put the gear pot onto a 12v feed if i need to.

Stunning build really is a pro set up With the fuel sensor did the 150 ohm work ok , i need to do my dash 2 set up and was advised to use a 300 ohm pull up.

The cartek would just use one output to feed the ECU engine loom , you would then use a separate channel for the starter solenoid wire. You can then set channels to flash for indicators either using the button on the pdp or to take a trigger input from steering wheel buttons. On mine ive used...

Sounds like your doing similar to me but I didnt stump up for the PDP. In a way I wish I did as they look like a brilliant bit of kit and would of saved wiring a few relays.

Going to be setting alarm points on my dash2 , what would be the recommended alarm point for a track use f4r ?

Tyre racks and some cheap Ebay shelving went up last weeks. Will need to move the toolbox and racking to finish the flooring in this section, then once the building work is signed off I will get the roof lagged and boarded in. Glad of having somewhere light and clean to work on cars again after...

I also have some cup racer bottom arms (thanks to Massivewangers) to fit which give more static caster, as the car need an alignment anyway I will get these fitted before then.

Just heard back from omex and looks like my ECU has the older firmware , so that explains why it wouldn't communicate with the dash2. Will need to send it to them next time I'm home from work to be updated only £35 so not a big deal and at least it wasnt something I was doing wrong ?

Got the graphs today from power runs all very similar

We just put some settings in that I found online and they worked out well.

Got a call yesterday to say my napper could fit me in this morning , so quickly put the car together enough to get it mapped. Few small issues to work through but made 179 Bhp 154ftlb atw and survived mapping and about 20 power runs. We have an issues where it wont pull below 2000rpm no...

I'm heading up but will be on a VW/ Audi stand as don't think the clio will be ready

Got the main area of the garage finished today so can now get back to finishing the clio dash. I did take the car for a quick test on the farm road but it almost stalls when under load as the map is out.