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Let me see if I’ve got an old flywheel up in the garage loft. If I have, you can have it for whatever the postage costs are.

I’d get it sent to Beaniesport mate. They’ll refresh it for you so it’s tip top. 👍🏻

So in theory, the idea sounds simple and like it’ll work. But the issue comes with removing material from the standard flywheel isn’t really ideal as it can weaken them as they’re only cast. I can’t give you any measurements either I’m afraid as I don’t have a flywheel that I could measure. I...

Small amount of polishing evident on some of the bores, but the that’ll hone out.

Header tank is in that area as well mate

That’s a lot of water coming out mate! No coolant pipes at the back of the engine except for heater matrix. Can’t distinguish which side it’s coming from, but could stat housing, heater pipes or water pump.

I’ve used a pencil eraser to remove polish residue from plastic trims. It’s very effective

Well all we can hope for is a good outcome on your behalf mate.

The thing is, people make mistakes. It’s just part and parcel of being a human being. But not everyone seems to be able to own their mistakes, and it’s how mistakes are rectified that shows the kind of human you are.

I think the cat was well and truly out of the bag before I confirmed the name mate.

No point pussy footing around is there!

Beaniesport.

Well it’s not looking favourable is it. And knowing who one of the members of staff who works at the so called specialist is, he was already known as a prick.

The issue realistically can only be down to: Cylinder bores out of spec Piston rings incorrect gaps/faulty Worn valve guides I’ve listed them in what I would suspect as the most likely to the less likely. If it’s all 3, then you got sold a proper lemon. Have a look in the breather pipe that...

Jump! 😂

Just to put that into some sort of context for you mate, here’s how my engine that I built spent its life. Fully rebuilt using new pistons, rings and bearings. Everything measured to check for wear - all within manufacturers spec. After that it went on the rollers at efi for around 20-30...

One swift kick in your balls and you’ll be on the floor. So no need for a ladder of any sorts.

No, the fat lip you’ll be sporting.

Can I enter the show and shine? 😂

No worries mate

In that case, I’d say yeah they’re the same then mate.

Are they top adjustable?

I had kw v2 on my first cup - which are Koni top adjustables with kw badges. Ran the rear at full stiff and dialled the fronts to suit my preference. They work very well. Actually quite a supple ride quality when they’re not set to full stiff as well.

The issue with the ‘oem’ aftermarket clutches are the straps holding the pressure plate and cover assembly together. They use thinner metal on the straps and they break - which is when they machine their way through the bellhousing.

You’re very welcome mate. Nice to meet you as well 👍🏻

It’s time mate.

It’s the pms resonating in my opinion.

I’m afraid I don’t know the part number for the gasket mate

I’d be having a look at the gasket for the coolant thermostat housing mate. It’s oil and coolant in that area, and when they leak, they leak pretty well.

Lol absolutely not a f**king chance of that happening mate