Search results

My OMP is not a dash dodger and is bolt in. I think OMP updated all their clio mk2 cages a few years ago to not be dash dodgers.

I don't think I can make the 2nd so see you next time. Trophy 299 nice to meet you today.

Correcting the roll centre reduces load transfer.

60 N/mm = 343 lb/in 40 N/mm = 228 lb/in So you're already pretty stiff for a daily IMO, but you know what you can cope with - all depends on what you do daily I guess. I'd say see how you get on with the roll centre correction kit first. It should give you less body roll and more front grip so...

I really think 400 would be a bit harsh for a daily.

My fibre glass one still has all the same inner supports as the std one. I guess you could lighten it a bit. Have you ever weighed a really stripped down std boot or door Mark? I expect there won't be much in it compared to fibre glass.

My ph2 fibre glass bonnet weighs 6kg

The third is for the light around the socket.

I'd suggest you searched on the forum to see how people who've bought spax have gotten on with them... There have been some quality control issues...

The pdf I have says 120 degrees. Drop me your e-mail address and I'll send you a copy.

I get the brake judder problems Sunny. I use DS3000 are you on them too? I've seem a few people say it since I started getting it, not just on here. My discs would only last 2 races before the vibrations were too much. Great pads though apart from that... I've not done enough track time recently...

I have 450 up front and I wouldn't want to be that stiff on even a relatively smooth rally like Abingdon. More like 200-250 and help control roll with a FARB as mentioned. Circuits I would go stiffer and not be bothered about FARB.

I'd say it is pretty well balanced, with a slight bias for oversteer.

Did you post the right link? Not much info in there really. I have AST 1 450/400 front/rear. It is driveable on the road but is very stiff. Too stiff to enjoy on road really, OK for driving to tracks. I'll go stiffer still next time, but my car 100% motorsport use.

There is a little return spring for the lever, but the lever is not connected to the suspension. The way it works is as you press the pedal a piston in the bias valve moves out when the lever is connected to the suspension it resists the piston and increases the bias to the rear. With it not...

It is not supposed to be connected on the 172 cup.

Lowering can cause drive shafts to bottom out in the joints. 100mm is quite a lot. Try raising it a bit. On later models or cups, I can't remember which. The subframe has the holes the wish bones bolt to 10mm further out so this would potentially fix your problem too. 172 cup driveshafts are...

What did Fred use on yours?

If you search there are some recent links to the manuals that will help you out. LSD182 Difficult to tell how bad that is from the pics. But if it wasn't noisy before and you don't want to spend any money on it I would just put back together and see how you get on. They are all old bangers now...

My OMP sounds similar to Morgan's Oreca. I did away with all vents except the windscreen. UCH still mounted in original position. think there was some issue with the fuse box though as I ended up moving it to where the air bag was - the wiring allowed this without modification.

Good luck getting the wiper off ;) Mine won't budge.

Mine does the same. I've not got around to figuring out why yet.

Try a search someone posted an updated link just the other day.

Solid state cut off should be more reliable. When I did grass track racing we used to have problems with the mechanical cutoff switches due to dirt getting in the mechanism.

What Dan is saying, I think, is that part of the flywheel where one of the clutch cover bolts goes in has come away, you can see this in the pic. This allowed the bolt to come loose. As the clutch cover moved once the bolt had gone the whole lot went out of balance and vibrated itself apart.

Sorry to see all this Tony. Proper job though ;) I have lots of random clio bits if you need anything. Didn't Ian's flywheel fail similarly? Obviously not quite so catastrophically though!

You can get a lower 5th and different final drives. You could get a better set of ratios by getting a similar box to BIGASH. But I expect that may cost you a bit more ;)

Have you tried your old belt as wel?

What is the pulley people use to cure this?

What would you use then?