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Wow. God knows what that is! Looks like a normal phase 1 to me which I believe originally came with a 2 piece shaft, so I recon at some point in its life somebody has swapped it out for a single piece shaft from a phase 2 172 cup. I think the new one will fit (2 piece) but you will need the...

What car is it you have exactly as theres no such thing as a phase 1 172 cup? An actual 172 cup uses the 1 piece driveshaft in your bottom picture so I'm guessing you mean it's a normal 172 cup phase 2? Pretty sure all other models use the 2 piece shaft as per your top picture, this bolts to...

Drove it to work quite spiritedly to check that nothing fell off or broke after changing the clutch. It's like a new car, light as a feather, would definitely reccomend anybody with a high mileage Clio to do it

I've got a couple of parts left over from when I did my clutch and one is this piece of plastic, I know it goes behind the bumper but cannot work out where lol?

I'd just use the standard U bolt clamps which came with the exhaust. My ktec came with them anyway, never been a problem.

Nevermind, tried re calibrating the sensor to the yellow dot with the battery connected and all is now well

You clamping the the place? I had that issue and I'd put the clamps too far down the pipe. They need to be at the end going over the slits on the end of the pipe

Having been reading about this it seems like I might have knackered the angle sensor by turning it too far. Can they be fixed? Surely it can't be that badly damaged? Also, do they need recalibrating with clip afterwards?

Hi guys. Well I completed my clutch change, drove it to work this morning and now have the abs light. Now I'm pretty sure that the issue is that when I undid the pinch bolt I rotated the steering wheel a few times when reconnecting the joint and I recon this had knocked out my steering angle...

I'm hoping the same with mine, although I get no crunches so should be ok, but there's no way I'm having the box off again in the near future, I'm aching head to toe. I think rust will be the death of my car before anything mechanical tbh

Sure it's just not ready for a rebuild? 136k is mad mileage on a jc5 lol, most are in a scrapyard by 120 lol

Put some comma 75 80 in mine tonight after a clutch change. Feels fantastic tbh.

Done, what a pigging nightmare of a job lol. Feels like a different car though with the new clutch, light as a feather

Legend. Cheers bro

Nah I need a pic of the black bracket which the dog bone connects to at the gearbox. Cheers though

Could somebody do me a massive favour and post a picture of how that black bracket attaches to the dog bone mount and gearbox. I took it off yesterday doing my clutch change and can't work out how to put the thing back on!!

Got the bolts undone, easy when I realised a ring spanner would fit lol. Anyway, the bracket which goes between the wishbones and the chassis has had to be grinded off as the bolt was knackered. Will it be safe to drive without this until I can sort a new one?

Sound, will persuade in the morning lol. Well they are all loose, box side almost completely out, but no movement whatsoever at the rear. What nuts and bolts did you use? I'm thinking about just replacing the b******s anwyas incase I have to take the box out again. Issue is I need the car...

Undone the pinch bolt at the universal joint

Yeh I've removed the tripod under the top mount, top mount/battery tray, lower mount which attaches to the subframe, and the dog bone mount with the black bracket which it attached to.

Took all 3 gearbox mounts completely off lol

Well it's not going well lol . Undid ball joints etc. Managed to loosen all 4 subframe bolts, all the clips broke lol. But then they got stuck to a point where it felt like they were going to break so I had to back off. However, the subframe will not budge even with them all slackened. I've...

Cheers guys. If I remove the A frames behind the subframe first is there any more chassis rail to use so I can get the axel stands closer to the front of the car? I always use those rails but they just feel a little too far away from the engine

Hey guys. I'm doing the clutch tomorow on the 172 and my biggest mistake last time i did a clutch was not getting the car high enough. I own 4 axel stands but only ever use 2 on the front chassis rails and leave the rear sat on the wheels. Would it be safer to put the rear on stands too on...

Depends if your already running the new designed spacer nut or not.if your still on the separate spacer and 17mm nut then they won't fit the ones on rpd as far as I'm aware

Those look perfect for the task, can't bloody find anywhere that stocks them locally, I wonder if Amazon delivery works the bank holiday!?

I don't think a socket will fit in the access hole will it? Yeh I've got an impact gun, I'll give it a shot. Lubed up the rears a few days ago, I'll do them again tonight. Can't get to the fronts without taking the bumper though so I'll make that my first job on the stripdown.

Nice 1 cheers. I think I've read every subframe thread on the forum but got conflicting answers. So we recon I'm gonna need a 16mm and 18mm swan neck spanner then.

Cheers dude. All 4 inners the same size? I thought I'd ready somewhere that the rears were a different size nut

Hey guys. I'm going to do my clutch at the weekend and am going to lower the subframe to go live better access rather than strip the bay out completely and try doing it from the top. I'm assuming that the captive nuts will spin. What's the best tool to get in there with and what size will I...