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You got a link to the febi ones that fit a 172?

Just changed the disks and pads on the wife's mk3 1.4 and one of the anti rattle shims broke on the bottom outer pad on the NS. Will it cause any bother? I have noticed there's a squeak which increases with speed which wasn't there before the pad change. Would the broken shim cause this?

Ah right sorry. Assumed it was a 1*2

Can i ask what is meant by the swivel hub joint? Is it referring to the bottom ball joint on the hub? If so you've just been royally shafted

On 1*2s it does tend to be an injector but I couldn't say for the tce

Yeh suppose so. A bit of an idea where to start looking would be helpful though lol.

Yeh will do. Alternator was charging at 14.4v so hopefully I can rule that out. Strange that cleaning the connectors to the rear lights solved the brake fault light.

Sorted. Cleaned the earths and connectors to the rear lights and the braking fault went off but still wouldn't start. Jump leads on and it fired up. Could it be that the poor earth had caused the battery to drain?

Really. I can't believe that'd cause the engine to not even attempt to start. I'll unplug the switch and see if it starts

Yeh breaking means braking lol. Fluid is fine and pads have tonnes of meat on them.

Checked break fluid levels and gave the connectors to the fluid resivoor a clean but still dead.

Guys. Bought a mk3 1.4 a few days ago as a temporary car for the wife and it's been fine Today it decided it doesn't want to start. The error that comes on it's breaking fault. It doesn't even attempt to turn over it just come up on the dash saying breaking fault beep beep and that's it. I...

I didn't touch the subframe when I did mine. Out the top if your shift the radiator ecu and any other bits in the way

See if there's any second hand manifolds knocking about on ebay

Sounds like a pikey exhaust repair

Don't do them too tight either. All 3 of my clios have had the threads stripped on the hole. Or there's a captive nut spinning, never actually checked lol

Could it be an earth problem somewhere? Just the fact you say all the other faults have now appeared make me think this

If it's a massive hole change it, if it's not gobbo it up with some silicone/superglue/something sticky that sets New jr driveshafts are pretty cheap though.

I thought the one with spacer was designed to stop the strut nocking on full lock

What is the tool?

2005 Clio 172? They stopped them in 03 as far as I know. Unless it was old stock? Engine mounts could be a cause of the bang. Id recommend a powerflex dogbone mount and new upper engine and gearbox mount. Febi

Yeah I had them both off yesterday when doing my rear axles. Both have the same amount of rebound and no leaks. Not sure how else to check them?

Yeah rear dampers feel fine, no leaks or anything. Could be the tyres, one of them on the rear is more worn than the other.

Think so, all look fine and there's no wheel shaking or anything

Just done a long motorway drove and notice that when cruising at say 65 the car is perfectly straight, but as soon as I accelerate it starts to pull to the right quite bad. Car has recently had new everything up front so all ball joints and bushes etc are fine. Breaks aren't binding and...

Is it constant? Only when you go over bumps? Only when cornering? When accelerating or coasting? Need a bit more info

Ktec stealth on my 172, same as yours on my 182.

My unsilenced ktec stealth is way too loud with the cat on. My plan eventually will be to find a silenced centre section and then decat it. I found that the best setup on my old 182

The febi top engine mount is perfectly fine. Gearbox mount can't remember the brand but it doesn't need to be Renault. The febi part is 20 quid on eBay and is a perfect fit. Then powerflex dogbone. The vibratechnics are mega stiff from what I've seen.

For me OEM gearbox and top engine mounts with a powerflex dogbone is perfectly fine. Also, those powerflex inserts shouldn't really be installed on an old mount