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I've paid via BACS.

Can you let me know where to send it as I'm out of the country for a week from Saturday night.

They are different parts from Renault, potentially this is just due to the length of the wire though. It's an extra 10 quid for the 6 inches of extra wire if I remember correctly. lol.

So how do we pay then?

So what was it then Fred?

Here's how I got mine open when all else failed. You don't need to break anything. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=186668

Mk2 Ph2 172. Are they Renault only? If not where's the best place to get them? Thanks.

Should there be any? My brakes are s**t in the wet and getting worse. Took the callipers off today. A little play in one slider of each calliper i.e. I could move it side to side with my fingers. Also the pads were a bit tight in the surround, needed to use a screw driver to prise them off...

On the 172 Cup (which has no ABS) there is a brake compensator that reduces the effort on the rear brakes. It is not connected to the suspension so is always at its minimum bias. Maybe you need to fit one of these.

I'm sure I remember some mechanic friends of mine telling me they could do it without removing the head. They put a load of grease in the hole so the metal shavings got caught by that and then fished it out afterwards. Not sure how "good" a way it is to do it like that.

When I fill mine to max it always moves down to mid way between min and max and stays there forever. I'm guessing it's just expansion forces the initial fill up out. That's with the level measured when cold. Are you sure it's not something similar?

I can send you a pdf of the Renault manual if you PM your e-mail address. Not sure it's got much electrics in though. Sounds like a short ;-) Do you have the correct fuse? Does it still blow if you remove the relay - I'm guessing the back of the fuse box will tell you which one. Does it...

Adding weight won't change the bias as the compensator is disconnected so always will act at the minimum setting. That's the way it's supposed to be. I can still lock my rears if I'm unlucky when under heavy braking on the track - even with the compensator disconnected. Does anyone know if you...

That's how it should look on the cup. The rear brakes do have low effort and unless the MOT guy understands that's the way it's supposed to be you get problems. Tell him that's how it should be. Look at the last page of the link posted above and show that to the MOT guy. I cable tie mine up...

Mine did this and it was the fly-by-wire throttle. After it stalled if you opened the bonnet (with the ignition still on) you could hear it making some horrible crunching noises. It's a 172 mk2 ph2, but I guess the 1.2s don't have that. Renault replaced the throttle under warranty after I'd told...

You can hear them on youtube if you do a search.

Have you got the manual? If not PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it you. Technically I think the answer is yes you should use it, just incase your new belt behaves slightly different when tensioned to your old one. I've done it without any of the tools, but people always shout at me...

If the belt stretches as it ages then the timing will move anyway whether you use the tool or not. Using the tool the timing will be 100% right but doing it my way it'll be almost as good and the difference would be undetectable without measuring the timing with a dial gauge. Next time I do it...

Marking the cams pulleys against the head will be just as accurate as using the tool as long as you don't remove the cam pulleys. You would have to get it a whole tooth out to get it wrong and that would be obvious from the marks you made.

So what is wrong about it, be specific.

I seem to recall seeing something on the K-Tec site suggesting a 172 could go to 179. But I'm sceptical myself. A new exhaust system south of the cat is never going to make much of a difference to performance or Renault would have done it to start with. As I understand it they had to redesign...

Mine did this, it was the motor inside. 55 quid for the new mechanism from Renault, you have to buy the whole thing. Got one for a fiver from a scrappy.

My F1s on the front did 15-18k with one track day thrown in. Rears one went out of shape at 38k (flat spots) the other is still going, must be nearly 60k now.

Sounds a bit dodgy that it went in for a cam belt, that hadn't actually broken and now looks as though it has a bent valve. Could your first mechanic have tried to start it after getting the the pulley alignments wrong? This could then lead to a bent valve. If you had a bent valve before you...

I'm sure I'll get lambasted but, if your mechanic if half decent and you aren't going to need to remove the cam pulleys, which you won't for the jobs you've listed. He won't need any special tools. You can lock the crank with an 8mm drill bit, inserted backwards. You can mark the cam positions...

I've just fitted a K-Tec stealth. It's pretty quiet but still louder than standard. Seems louder, when you start the car and when going up hills on motorways and dual carriageways but otherwise only slightly louder. It is fine when cruising on the motorway. I've heard the Yozza sport one is...

My cup sprang a leak from the pipe under the air box. It had come out of its retaining clip and been rubbing on the gearbox. I can't remember which of the two pipes it was, but I can remember they were both in the region of 200 quid from Renault! The hole was tiny took a couple of days before...

1. Justin-172 (Clio 172) 2. BioHzrd (Clio Mk3 1.6) 3. Turner (172) 4. Schweppy (182) 5. Anim@l (182) 6. Panda (182) 7. Pepsi (182) 8. Adam1942 (Mk3 1.2 TCE if you can get them and depending on price) 9.warren4 172 10. Limca (ph1 172) 11. Whiteley (182) 12. Day (172) 13. Osbid172 (172) 14. Gray...

My cup's (I assume they're the same, tyres are the same size) are about 32-37 front, 31-33 rear.

Just paid, 2 tickets.