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I once asked my Renault garage what they put in and they said Mobil 1 0W-40. They wanted to charge me over 80 quid for 5 litres though lol.

Does it only happen on long journeys or is it after a certain number of miles? If only long journey I wondered about a block in the breathing system somewhere leading to oil being fed into the air intake? Any sign of oil in the air filter box?

The brakes are the same for cup and normal 172. you just don't need the abs rings on the cup. Doesn't matter if they are there though. I think my original ones had abs rings on. Got my braided lines on ebay, they are Goodridge ones, think they were 46 quid.

Would coilovers from a 182 fit a 172 (cup). Thanks

I had the same with mine - didn't fail the MOT though. Mine weren't tight but they did touch. I measured them against the originals and they were exactly the same length. I did play about with them but couldn't get them to not touch at full lock. What are the rules for the MOT is it touching...

With the standard suspension I didn't think there was anyway to change the alignment of the rears - so what is the point? Is it any different with coilovers? Surely you just need the fronts done?

Here's what Renault say. http://www.renault.co.uk/about/category/10/news.aspx?WT.srch=1 You WD40 the mechanism, the catch and the safety. Then you silicon lube them. I reckon the guy in the video should be up for an oscar lol.

I've got: EBD dimpled and slotted discs and DS2500 pads on the front. Standard on the rear. Braided lines all round. The setup is much better than standard. Probably down to the pads though rather than anything else. The discs look pretty and I thought they might improve my wet braking as my...

Do you mean dimpled and slotted? That's what I've got with DS2500 pads. They work great, don't know how they compare to Brembo Max as I've never had them. The combo is much better than standard. I have braided lines all round and standard rear discs and pads.

Even with the arm missing I've locked my rears on track days. Last time I spun and hit the barriers due to it. So you definitely don't want it on there! I'm going to try and reduce the effort even more!

Ideally you'd get pads too, they aren't that much and don't need to be anything special for the rears. They look like the right discs and seem very cheap, I paid much more than that and I seem to remember renault ones were more again something like £180 but I could be wrong.

http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf This manual has instructions for the head.

http://www.renault.co.uk/corporate/about/category/10/newsnumber/2841031b-5043-4246-b75b-03857314c9a3/newsitemdisplay.aspx Sounds like all Clio mk2 are free to book in with Renault and get it replaced for free if necessary. Although, I've not had any letter.

Mine has leaked like this when it has been a bit full. Just keep an eye on it, clean it up and then see if it keeps leaking or reaches a sensible level of fluid where it doesn't leak. I don't think the fluid reservoir is under pressure at any point, so this shouldn't affect your braking as long...

It is stuck tight on the spindle into the motor. Any ideas for getting it off? Can you get the motor off with the wiper still on - would be easy to apply more force then. Thanks.

The tools aren't "essential" unless you remove the cam pulleys. You can mark the cam pulleys against the head for position and lock the crank with an 8mm drill bit/drift. I'll get abuse for saying it but it's true. No one has ever given me a decent reason why it's not. This also means you can...

Are the sport 172/182 front fog lights the same for all phase 2 models i.e. non sport ones as well?

And surely with the lambda sensor constantly adjusting the mixture the fuel/air temperature shouldn't be an issue because the lambda sensor will say add more/less fuel depending on the oxygen present in the exhaust gasses?

I've never noticed any difference in the cold and I've had mine 4 years. I get 36-38 on the computer which works out as 33-35 in reality, and I don't spare the horses either. My driving is most "extra urban" I suppose. I've also never noticed a significant difference with the >95 RON fuels...

And cheap skates like me would like to try and put the bearings from the old discs into the new discs.

I broke a bearing trying to get the new one in without a press. Got them pressed in for 15 quid in the end. Even with a press you'll likely break the old ones getting them out.

I can normally do at least what the computer says before the display goes blank. But I tend to use the fuel used number to work out how much I have left. I have run out at 9.9 gallons (even though it was a full 11 gallon tank lol). Normally I can safely take it to 10 though. I also find the...

Re: 3 beeps when locking clio 182 If you turn the ignition on then off, on then off, then set the alarm. Doesn't that switch off the internal movement sensors and make a beeping sound when you set the alarm to tell you they're off? I think it is three beeps.

They are held on the same way as the washers, 21mm nut. Bumper off.

If it didn't do it before it went in they have clearly done something. Don't let them wiggle out of it. They should sort it for free.

I can't get the rear wiper arm off the spindle that goes into the motor. Any tips anyone? I've even had a puller on it but the arm is not strong enough to take the force and bits keep breaking off. Alternately I just need to reposition it so if you can do that without removing it that would...

If you end up going the bonnet route here's some pics: Bumper off grill not broken ;-) Closer view of where to stick the screwdriver - you need to go in through the small gap. With a torch you can see in there. You need to hit the little thing that looks like a knife away from the stud that...

Make sure you read to the end. Here is how I did it (open the bonnet without breaking anyhing - well actually I did but I didn't need to!). http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=186668

On my Dad's car when this happened the RAC man had an inflatable bag thing. He managed to slide it down the door seal and inflate it so it pushed the top of the door away from the car enough for them to get a stick in to open the door.

You don't need to smash anything to get the bonnet open even on the 172/182. You need to remove the bumper. The grill unclips from it and stays on the car. Once the bumper is off you can lift the grill up and see the bonnet catch. You need to stick a long screw driver in there and hit it with a...