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Mine used to do a similar thing. I never worried about, but tried to avoid keeping at the revs where it made the noise for a long time. Just meant I had to drive faster ;-) When my back box went and got replaced so did the vibration. It sounded like the rattle came from the front but in the end...

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Handbrake locks both rear wheels. The hub nut holds the disc on. The bearing is pressed into the disc so when changing the disc it is advisable to get new bearings as well as getting them out of the disc often breaks them. Renault sell them with bearings pressed in. I got mine from a motor...

There is this manual for the 172 http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

I've got a new boot for my car after a little track day incident ;). What is the best way to remove the bits of double sided sticky tape that have been left behind by the old number plate? Thanks

My 172 cup, register October 02 has the twisted one.

Magnet on a stick? Even blue tack on a stick if its not magnetic enough. Failing that turn the car over ;-)

Mine always stays at half full even when I top it up to max it is very quickly back to half way between min and max. It has done it for the 100k miles I've driven it so I wouldn't worry unless it goes below min and keeps going down.

Yes the top half of the manifold/plenum chamber has to come off. It is dead easy, just don't over tighten the plugs or manifold bolts since they are into aluminium.

The 182 has a different exhaust manifold. It is the manifold that knocks against the subframe to make the noise, so maybe with the different manifold it doesn't happen so much.

The knocking has completely gone. Other than that no difference, maybe slightly more vibration if I drive with my hand on the gear lever. But it's so small I could be imagining it. Renault one from Renault, lol. 40 quid.

I'm posting these links just for the pictures, though I guess it'll give you an idea of price too: http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=2471 In the above picture you have, going from left to right: gearbox top mount, under the battery, engine top mount, open the bonnet you can't miss...

Not injured, although the Mrs is complaining of whiplash (she was sat next to me). I think I may have put her off track days. I hit the brakes at 95. Probably down to 60 ish when we went off. We still travelled a long way after the first impact. I had time to notice just how flimsy my front...

You need to check the mounts visually. Mine was doing same as yours. It sounded like axle tramped/wheel spin bounce but definitely wasn't. On inspection the twisted dog bone underneath looked suspect, all the others looked fine. Replaced the dog bone and it is fine now.

Don't need insurance for a track day... Oh wait, bang.

You're not wrong. I thought I was in for a massive shunt. But only quite lite when it actually hit. Going mostly sideways but hit with the front.

At a track day today, Castle Combe. Must have locked my rears braking for Tower corner from about 95mph. Next thing I know I'm sideways on the grass. Cue front end hitting concrete barrier, which spins me round for a go at the rear. Here's some pics: So looks like I'm in need of front...

Got mine too. Fortunate timing - going on a track day on Thursday. This will be the third set of pads my car has had on in 3 days lol - don't ask!

The whole engine doesn't move back, it twists with the torque going to the wheels. It twists in the opposite direction to the wheels. So the top of the engine moves back and the bottom forward, to different degrees depending on which mounts are weak.

On my ph2 you need 13mm for the nut and a 17mm spanner holding the bit it screws into still. You should be able to push the piston in without removing the caliper though and then you'd be able to see whether it was the brakes or the bearing. Just pull the caliper towards you and the piston...

I think I paid 97 for the front lambda and I believe the back one was about 105. From Renault. That's 8 quid for an extra foot of wire lol.

Glad you managed to resist the temptation to spend our cash on call girls and champagne ;) Thanks for your hard work. Seems like a nightmare to organise lol!

8mm drill bit, inserted backwards. The hole is behind a torx bolt on the front of the engine at the flywheel end. Low down to the right of the dip stick. Check out the manual http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

So where are we up to Justin? Have you sent the money to Yozza yet?

Was thinking of trying the EBC dimpled and slotted discs on the front of my 172. Probably going with DS2500 pads. Anyone got any thoughts/experiences on the discs? I know the conventional wisdom is Bembo HC or Max Groove but thought I might try something different.

Are you sure someone didn't swap your engine for a dci one night ;-) Doesn't sound like tappets to me. Sounds like it may be the dephaser pulley? Check out this thread, sounds like he has a diesel 172 as well...

What is the thread size for the bolts that hold the front disks to the hub on a 172? I'm thinking I don't really need them, as they are only there to hold the disk in place when the wheel bolts aren't in? Anyone disagree? Thanks

Brake servo, I think.

That's the same one I've got isn't it? It has torque settings in? 1 daN.m. = 10 N.m

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