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i think it's the torque that they may (or may not..) be uprated for. Franx - have you seen len beach's (hope i've iirc'd that rightly) thread? the KTEC mounts are made by Vibratechnics and shouldn't be crap; they're just a little expensive (presumably) due to all of the alloy

^ i do that in mine a fair bit in traffic; seems fine if you blip the throttle whilst shifting. i still haven't upgraded them, but am hoping that a lot of these shift problems will be eased with decent engine mounts - the whole lot just flaps about too much and there are no steady rods for the...

nice one. they look similar (although not 100% on the underside of that gearbox mount - would have to look at my spare) thing to do to see if they're any more useful than the Clio's mounts is to see how much stiffer the rubber might be. it'd be easier to do with the top mount - you're just...

you can often 'shock' bolts like this into starting by belting the spanner/ratchet with a heavy mallet

the prices seem about right (that's about what i paid for those two from ECP - Clio mounts). there's still confusion about the differences between the Clio and Kangoo mounts - people who've got them don't seem to post to clarify how they might differ in construction (?) or materials. could...

not really a mini though! what's it running - sounds like a small V8??

good to see a pro posting that it has taken a sensible amount of time (i.e. a day) to reach a stage like that - rather than the usual internet mechanics posting, 'shouldn't take you more than 3 hours' etc:rolleyes::D sarnies, tea and cigarettes involved, or was that a fairly steady effort?

check the inner diameter of the washer under the car - presumably it's too big and is allowing the damper rod to pass through it. there should be a lip on the rod that the washer sits on

i think someone else was having this bother the other day. have you got a washer and a rubber bush on both sides of the turret? (i.e. under the car as well as in the boot)

i'd not worry too much about the gearbox - all you can do is periodically check for leaks, ensure your engine mounts are 'good' (the std ones are rubbish, even when new imo - but worn mounts will contribute to wear in the gearbox), and drive the car considerately mine's been completely rebuilt...

it seems easier than i remember it - you just press the 'tuner' button and it toggles between the three search modes

if it's the same as the unit in mine, there are three different search functions that you can switch between - one that flips between presets, one that searches for station signals, and one that gives you manual control can have a look in my manual if you don't have one ed. hang on..

no need to double declutch (there hasn't been in cars for about 50 years) - you're just torturing yourself could blip the throttle to match revs to the those of the lower gear whilst downshifting though

as above. think it makes you wait if you put the code in wrongly (it just reads 'CODE'). you need to leave the unit on for 1 minute before it'll let you try again; get it wrong again and the delay's 2min, then 4min, etc

mine went at 40k. i didn't replace it myself and was told that something had friction welded itself to something else. it seized anyway. suspected cause was in the box having been run low on oil by a prev owner (unknown by me). they do have a reputation for leaking from the selector shaft and...

have replaced odds and sods which have a finite service life and you'd expect to have to replace at some time (although some of this stuff has been needed at an early age/mileage imo) - engine mounts (rubbish), top mounts (rubbish), battery, rear damper (leaking), exhaust/mountings then...

does the cluster still use the OE plug? the retaining clips are very weak and it doesn't take many off/ons before they're tempremental ed. reading fail - earth first

this is the kind of thing that turns into an epic multi-page discussion on DW (:S). how can it matter whether you wash your car's wheels before or after the bodywork? use a different bucket and don't pour it over the car after you've done the wheels?

^sensible advice. you could probably start just by removing the stuff in the boot and the rear seat back and bench, which shouldn't take long. should give you a good idea of the pros/cons of continuing (although pros will diminish, as you've taken most of the easy weight out already)

just some fresh observations about inspecting dampers if concerned about differences in performance between new and used - (need a bench mounted vice - or a damper test rig..) clamp two (new & used) into a vice and pull the rods down together; compare rate of return. pull the rods down...

hopefully Cat'll be able to help you out, but here's a list (in no particular order): - hub/wheel bearing - disc/caliper/pads - bottom arm bushes/balljoint - damper/top mount - driveshaft/diff - arb bushes - steering column/rack/bushes/tie rods/track rod ends - engine mounts - subframe...

so, as you're lifting the strut up, do you think the movement is in the damper or in the top mount? the wearing component (apart from the bearing) in the top mount is a rubber donut, which will compress with age but, personally, wouldn't have thought it would produce as much as 10-20mm free...

could try tightening the shaft that runs through the upper gearbox mount (as suggested) - need to remove the battery and the mount (fiddly as the retaining bolts at the sides aren't captive); there's a flat on the shaft that you can use to tighten it. it screws into a nut which is just...

is it free movement, or is it hard work? sounds as though you're compressing the damper - but should be able to do the same on the other side something else to check if you've clonking going on is the balljoints

whatever format takes your fancy i guess:) personally would be interested to read post event reports (planning on a season in mine once funds allow; would be really interesting to hear how you feel it copes, and how it fares against the competition) i'm sure there'd be people who would be...

one of mine decided to p*ss all of its oil out whilst i had it up on stands earlier this afternoon; just ordered another from Renault - they're only £53; for the little extra, i'd rather have an OE damper. ideally should replace them in pairs, but shouldn't be critical providing the other's not...

ign should be off :)

think i need at least one d/shaft at the moment and have been quoted 185+VAT (Renault) for just one - so £260 for two from yours seems good. any garage should be able to swap shafts for much less than Renault; not going to be a particularly difficult DIY job either need to have a good look...

sorry - as in, not seized. basically, just go round each wheel and make sure you can slacken all of the bleed screws before starting (don't leave them free - just check they're not seized). only suggested as, if any are seized, it can take some time to free them off and there's always the very...

sounds as though it's either going to be the driveshaft(s) or the diff - hopefully former. does it still steer? if the CVs have broken up, you wouldn't expect to be able to steer it. sounds as though strippage/inspection is in order