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Haynes is handy for stuff like this, as the interior's the same across the range

^£13/litre from EuroCarParts (although they may have to order it in) - it's apparently OE in a lot of Porsche

yes, but only if it were a better drive/ownership proposition than others of similar age/type/value sounds as though you've been unlucky, but that's all part&parcel of owning a car

there are a few on search, if that helps. the buffers do wear and you'll end up with a gap; some people plug it with 'whatever', or you could take the mount off and pull the metal frame in using a vice? it'd be handy if Renault sold the buffers separately, but they don't

i've never used it, but its primary use is in motorsport, given that it's supposed to help stabilise pressure variations with heat cycles. it's more widely available than it used to be but i've always thought that it'd be handier to have a personal supply as i like checking pressures regularly...

main concern (apart from noise/fumes/attention) would probably be losing the exhaust along the way - depends where it has gone. if (for eg.) one of the pipe to box welds has split, i'd look at having it welded for the return journey, just incase it goes completely on the way back and you end up...

they're currently £53ea and part numbers are on search somewhere (there are two - one supercedes the other). it think they're all the same, but best check on their computer before ordering

would be interested in knowing how easy they are to fit as one of mine snapped under a PT'd belt as well - just went with super glue, but would consider replacing it if it's a problem

they're £20 each (!) and i believe you need to strip the upholstery to fit them. superglue?

there are variations of two methods really; first is the usual 'avoid harsh/prolonged braking for a few hundred miles', other is the immediate method - something along these lines (although there are lots of slight variations): http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

would be interesting to know of the measureable effects, but adding 1" of depth to the frontal area's probably not going to make any noticeable difference from the driver's seat? don't know as haven't run mine without

think it's just cosmetic

they're about a fiver each from Renault, or are available pretty much anywhere else (Halfords, filling stations, etc)

could check that the spring is seated properly first. don't think top mounts are that expensive from Renault, but ECP/GSF sell them as well - they're about £25 for the donut and £15 for the bearing

you could bed them in today if you use the quick method. is that not what the destructions suggest?

if you're going to the trouble of removing the skinning from panels, seems best not to bother with carpets either. could just paint it if there are any untidy patches that don't match the rest of the shell

apols for off topic but bought and read this earlier - goodly read, and the blue one looks well. predicting CS FF-Police umbrage tho:D good luck to Dodson with shopping:)

have you a Protyre (http://www.protyre.co.uk/(X(1)A(QH5x9iPgyQEkAAAAMjU0NWQzYjUtOTYxMS00ZDYyLTkxODItYjNkYjg5MjVlN2QxpaAjgvmYUa4z1-4ppuv4Gfn7eAk1))/ouroutlets.aspx) nearby?

3 are shown here (http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=2471), without the dogbone if it's the rubber support block you've not done yet, it's probably not going to make much difference unless it's seperated from the metal work, as it's just a support/packing piece could uprate the...

i'd go through the usual for a car of this type - crash damage, owner history, servicing, etc; then some of the specifics - like leaky dampers, corroded exhaust, knocking on hard accel (engine mounts - check for gear oil leaks as well), clonking on lock (top mounts). should go well and change...

how much do the 'ordinary' Caterhams go for? must be able to get something interesting for 182 money? or an Elise. wouldn't buy a saloon car if it were a primarily a plaything anyway i'd love a R300 - you'd have some sort of chance of controlling it, whereas the R500 strikes me as a bit of a...

you're missing one of the gearbox ones - have you done the dogbone? (that one probably makes the most difference)

it's just time consuming and fiddly - particularly trying to get the clamps back on over the bolts for the inner bushes - need to sort of press them on with the tip of a screwdriver in one hand, whilst attempting to start the nut with the other hand

bought the model and colour i wanted, but only had a week (due to circumstances at the time) to find&buy one. looked at four and did travel some distance for each (furthest was a proper waste of time - real nause when people are 'economical with the truth' about a car's condition, esp. when the...

as ever, inferno's advice is sensible. engine mounts are a common problem and, if they've not been renewed yet, the car'll benefit from a new set (around £150 for all four). three of the mounts are uprateable but will cost you about £230 + the cost of the other non-uprateable mount (about £20)...

similar to wi7gle; i'd fit KTEC's uprated engine mounts, exhaust, and spend a little on the brakes (pads and fluid change should do it; stainless lines if it's an occasional track dayer). if you want to fiddle with the engine, i'd go for reworked inlets and a remap of some sort. i'm sort of...

cheap grinder from B&Q's probably only £20 and is a handy thing to own

have you complained about that? that's just pointless, putting a car through an MoT, having been asked to fix a failure point beforehand. could they not just have told you they couldn't get the wheels off, so that you could postpone the test? hope they're not planning on charging you a re-test...

no, although i'm thinking it's a contributory factor in some of the problems - mainly shift action. also, if you think about problems like the oil leaks they develop - they'll be promoted by movement in the powerplant

the air filter's also due every service. personally, am using OE service parts, but not critical