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baster or large syringe from a chemists to remove the fluid from the res, then top up with new fluid and go from there. it's a good idea to make sure the bleed nipples are free before starting

probably just an hours labour - depends upon how accessible the heads of the bolts are and what method/s they attempt. if you take the key along, they might be able to weld that up so that it's useable for the job

there are no linkage steady rods so, assuming yours is OK internally, all you can do is renew/upgrade the engine/box mounts. there are four and three of them are upgradeable for sensible(ish) money

looks similar in design to the key i have for my 172, so might be worth a go any garage should be able to remove the locking bolts for you and you don't 'need' to replace them with Renault locking bolts providing you buy an aftermarket set that are designed for the car/wheels if you've not...

glue/solder aren't going to withstand the torque; depending upon where it has broken, you might be able to cobble something useable together with a welder, but really want to be replacing it (and all of the locking bolts if you can't match the key). can't be all that expensive for a new set...

wow at that hairpin at the end of the vid. he's driven at some of the Coombe rally days and does a good show

guess this might be as per Dan (?), but if they're the set that were fitted to the car when it was sold, you've probably got the key code in one of the owner's booklets (assuming you've got those; worth checking anyway) there are ways of getting nuts/bolts off without the keys if you're stuck

is this the nut or the key that has broken?

lush - are you going to blog your championship? be really interesting to read as there don't appear to be many sprinters on here discs and pads are straightforward and there's quite a bit of opinion about pads on here

don't think they torque steer much at all for what they are, although they do hunt cambers keenly. i've recently run over something in mine and it does (now) seem to wander a little more than it did - only mentioned as it may be worth getting yours checked out (or comparing it with another)...

^that's a better idea than being underneath it; would try that first to see if there's any obvious movement

it sounds more like a suspension issue if it's clunking whilst going over bumps etc (may be bottom arms, arb, driveshafts) but, to check the dog bone, you'd ideally want to take it off to inspect it - although could put the front up (safely) on stands and lever the back of the unit (or have...

find them really handy, but you do need to be v careful to ensure that everything's together air-tight before filling the bottle with fluid. i recently bought another as the one i had hadn't been used for a year or two, and the seals had had it - not a biggie at £15-20 a go though

assuming it's a Clio2 (and not a GTT), they go under the cup/captive nut ontop of the turrets

twenty.. four.. grand?

probably not although you could have a good look at the underside of the car - they're more than likely shaped to fit into a cup. would need washers of the correct internal diameter as well would have hoped Apex would be able to help, as they must get asked for them

they're front strut bump stops; i'd contact Apex and ask them if they'd send/sell you a new set of the correct rubbers

ah, interesting - should be a little stickier than most other road tyres then most that i've noticed have a rating of 280+. Michelin Cups are 80, and Yoko A0R/Toyo 888s are 60

just out of interest, do you know what their wear rating is?

i think you're missing some bits (probably still stuck to the bottom of the car they came off!) there's a photo in this thread which likely shows what you should have: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=352716

are those all of the fitting rubbers that you have for it? it looks as though that one there (or another similar to it) should go under the turret as well

no joy with GSF, although ECP have suggested they can get shafts from a remanufacturer called Drivelink for £100+VAT exchange? anyone had one of these?

the ARB is very close to the frame even on a standard car, so may be worth renewing the outer bushes to see if that gives any more clearance. is the bar marked where it has been knocking? could be something else

thanks guys. Renault quoted me £185+VAT (no exchange) earlier but still haven't tried ECP/GSF (doesn't sound promising; will have to try a few different suppliers)

trying to identify the source of a constant and slight shake/vibration from the car since having run over a rock and am wondering if anyone knows if these are worth thinking about further: NSF camber -0deg38'; OSF camber -1deg13' (specs suggest -0deg49' minimum, although i can't see any...

not sure how this might go down, but would it be possible to post a list of who's got/had what, and where those waiting are in the pecking order? i've a week off in early April and, if it comes to it, can take my car off the road during it and send mine off, so no great rush for me (and apols...

that's a left hand (UK - nearside) reel/PT can take others if you need them

hope this works - ^ fired front PT; the belt buckle clip is on a steel cord that is fired along the tube as it goes off. (that one looks odd as the plastic trim surrounding the clip broke) ^ fired rear PT. the easiest way to tell a fired one is in fact that the belt will have locked...

i've tried a quick search but haven't been able to find a definitive answer to a couple of quick questions - does anyone know if ECP/GSF supply driveshafts for the 172 Cup? has anyone had one, and what 'make' was it? (do GKN supply them?) are the 172 Cup shafts the same as others? (picked...

i'm just going to photo a rear tensioner for someone else in a minute and also have a (fired) front one that i can post up here ed. otherwise, it's pretty much as your last thread - v easy to tell if they've gone off