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it's also worth having a good read of the service booklet as there are a number of jobs that are due at 3/4/5 yearly intervals; if they've not been done yet, they'd (presumably) be additional to what you've been quoted (which just sounds like a straight forward 12k interval, given that it's only...
parts from Renault for the standard service interval have been costing me about £60-70 (half of which is the oil) - might give you some idea of how the parts/labour thing is divided. only guessing, but would have thought you'd be able to save on the total by finding someone whose labour rate is...
was that for the hydraulic rack? i was told the book time was something like 4.7. i'm well slow but really can't imagine anyone managing it in 2 hours. there wouldn't be any tea or cigarettes involved anyway. i'd book it in if he's quoted you that
it's on the lower end of the upper gearbox mount bolt - need to remove the NSF wheel and have a look from the wheel arch (it's not all that easy to get at)
haven't been to one that won't yet - call round a few to check what they charge for change overs. probably looking at around £10/wheel as they'll balance the wheel, fit a new valve, and charge you to dispose of the old tyre
the PAS fluid is just auto trans fluid and shouldn't affect the mounting bushes. unless they're obviously shot (ie. split in two, etc) it's not really all that easy to decide if the engine mounts are worn. think you'd probably need to remove them and compare their stiffness with new mounts...
i'm still not 100% on this myself as i've got a similar problem to you at the moment and have sent my ECU off to be reset. the offical Renault line is that they need renewing (£200+) but some on here have had them reset by independent electronics outfits.
mine's due back from this chap...
it should be fairly obvious if they've fired (assuming you weren't carrying passengers at the time?)
the fronts are in the belt buckle (on the inside of the seat) and will have retracted downwards if they've fired - the stalk that the buckle is mounted on will have been pulled into the...
no one knows what they actually 'did' to it whilst they had it in, but it's not necessarily anyone's fault that the coil pack failed - could just be coincidental. the plugs aren't due until 72k, so you could use that as a bargaining point and argue that, if they weren't causing the running...
cheers Paul. think i might have spotted you in the shed earlier - car was at Cooks for the bonnet recall
i've bought a s/h front PT and a s/h reel (with unfired PT) - was just going to fit those once i've got the reprogrammed ECU back (have been told that it's not a cert that they can reset...
it'll still corrode, just at a much (much) slower rate than mild. shouldn't be an issue during the lifetime of the car, unless Renault have used a mikey mouse grade of stainless (doesn't look as though they have)
think it depends upon the car and what you're prepared to put up with but i'd list possible issues as: noise, will smell of unburnt fuel, insurance/MoT hassles, might illuminate the engine management warning lamp
i'd try and find a suitable piece of tube to slide over the ratchet handle - must have something you can use/borrow - hollow trolley jack handle, length of exhaust tubing, metal Hoover pipe, etc etc
it'll almost certainly have a diagonally split system, which means that each front caliper is on the same hydraulic circuit as the diagonally opposite rear - need to bleed all four wheels
haven't ever had a problem with mixing up the order of bleeding brakes, but it probably 'should' be NSR...
i've had to replace the rack on mine and might be able to help
1. there are two universal joints in the steering column which i would check before assuming it's the rack.
2. don't know about the Ph1 rack but do know that Cup racks are no different to Ph2 non-cups. it'll either be a TRW or...
the manis are stainless and the cat is mild steel (172 cats are anyway), so it will corrode. it's not really all that big a job to renew the joint on a 182 and you can buy the bits seperately if you just need a new sealing ring
sounds as though you're going to have to narrow it down a little - probably a dirty hands job; wheel off, checking for loose bits (unless you feel it's more likely that it's coming from the cabin)
it does sound like a geo problem - tyre wear as described just isn't right. without knowing how sophisticated the equipment Renault used was (might just have checked the F tracking?), i'd initially be thinking of taking it to an indie to have it checked on a decent 4 wheel alignment rig. it...
no answers, but it seems unusual that a comprehensive geometry check wouldn't identify a problem that might cause marked rear tyre wear like that - ? (seems there must be a problem - bent stub axles, beam issues, twisted frame, +)
do you know what they used to measure things, and might it be...
so, is it leaking from somewhere?
the system needs bleeding as well, which might explain the gargling noises, but obv. no point in continuing if there's a leak
guess it's going to divide opinion, but not a fan of stickers on cars - looks better to me, although why have you ditched the 172 Cup pillar stickers?
you want to get some door squares on it and get sprinting in it (unless you do already) - great fun
you definitely don't want solid engine mounts in anything other than an out-and-out race car - they'll feel unbelievably harsh in a road car
still haven't the funds spare but, as soon as i have, i'll be giving the KTEC/Vibratechnics mounts a go. stiffer mounts made an enourmous difference in...