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how's that? (genuinely interested) i though one of the benefits was that you didn't get pressure variation as the temps rise/fall

i think they're round-about 800kilos in std trim; that one's surprisingly quick!

have you may be disturbed one of the lambda connections?

i guess it might vary between cars but i've played with the air filter on mine to see what difference running without one/without various hoses attached makes to the performance (none!), the MPG, and noise - and running without that hose connected lost something like 4mpg (according to the OBC)...

is the mount itself still intact - not split in two? it looks completely shot - the base plate is pushed in in the bottom photo, but the mount is still way too far back should be possible to get alignment by slackening the other mounts and hufting it about if it's the same problem with the new...

it'll knock your MPG, which might be a consideration

for bolt-on-bits, would also have thought a decat and inlets would be the next stage. you've already got cams, and headwork/throttle bodies are v expensive. ideally, i'd want it setting up on a RR afterwards, but i guess you could make enquiries about how suitable your current map might be with...

the pops/bangs/flames are caused by unburnt fuel passing through the engine and igniting in the hot exhaust. you'd need to de-cat as part of the cat's job is to deal with unburnt fuel, and then you'd likely just need to get your exhaust hot and 'hope' the engine's passing unburnt fuel...

no need to worry about the subframe - just the rack and its associated bits mine's fine now and probably cost about £200 to sort - it primarily needed doing as it was leaking PAS fluid - the 'cracking' noise was fixed co-incidentally. the rack cost £125 to 'recondition' (the track rods were...

can you get the Goodyears in 16" yet? they came top in EVO's '07 tyre test but weren't available in anything under 17" at the time

mine wouldn't do it without weight on the wheels either. also, it wouldn't do it on very smooth surfaces (eg. on a ramp or a garage floor) - which made diagnosing where it was coming from impossible it came of to have the PAS seals renewed and that's when i noticed that this bolt was bent. it...

not sure which model you've got and how it might be different to a 172 Cup, but i had a similar sounding problem (at either lock only) and suspect that it was the column to rack clamp bolt - it was slightly bent and had lost one of its threads no idea how this might have happened and should...

inlets, remap, front pads - probably a little over budget, but not far off

lol! from that thread: "isnt that the one that fell off the edge into that stream?" wouldn't be happy either! edit. too slow!

not for £450.. i'd have a go if you can get one cheaply enough and don't mind the hassle involved in fitting it (subframe needs to be dropped)

that's a 172 manifold. the 182 mani looks like this: http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=2496

Carlton in Exmouth are likely your best bet

the stuff Renault sell you is bottled as auto transmission fluid. not sure what grade it is though there is a max level bar on the reservoir but mine's opaque and i can't see where the fluid level is - so i just ensure it's maintained at the bottom of the filling tube

why do they crack? can't be due to heat and that one doesn't look too bad otherwise - is it just poor materials?

possibly - have to measure how deep the hole is and compare these might be a more cost effective alternative: http://www.toolmix.com/searching/search.asp?doSearch=true&SearchKeywords=box+spanner&SearchType=exactPhrase