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unless you're using an oxy-torch, i think you might struggle to get enough effective heat into it. have you tried tightening it (to crack the seal) and then undoing it? something else to consider is whopping the end of your spanner with a heavy, soft faced mallet to start it - but i'd ask...

i think they're an exhaust specialist but they do seem to deal in other areas (http://www.cesuk.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=53&Itemid=32) worth a quick 'phone call

he's gone wrong somewhere if he's trying to get to Zatlog as well

ECP sell the top engine mount and the upper gearbox mount only. KTEC advertise the top engine and upper and lower gearbox mounts, but not the dog bone mount at the back of the gearbox - worth a 'phone call as they may be able to provide them cheaper than Renault (which would be your alternative...

have a look on KTEC Racing's site as they advertise three of the four OE mounts for less than Renault charge. you can also buy copies of the top engine mount and the upper gearbox mount from Euro Car Parts for a little less. the most expensive mount is the top engine mount which is still £50-60...

try shopping around as you should fine them cheaper than that and a lot of these fitters have 'price match' guarantees which allows you to choose where you actually buy them from it's unlikely you'll find anywhere as cheap as the online tyre sellers so you could check out the cost of buying...

there's just something about it that makes me want to push it over:nono:

if you're keeping a car, the last thing you want's a cheap respray. a lot of the finish is in the preparation and that's where all the work goes

i don't know if they work (although someone i was chatting with a while ago seemed to think their's did), but one of those sonic repellants might be worth a go. they are audible if you've got good hearing - horrible high pitched screeching noise

lol; they blew the fuses in my 205 so i didn't bother with them. they tend to be much cheaper than these 'brighter' std wattage bulbs. i guess they might not suit the Clio's plastic lens either?

is this the standard exhaust? the boxes are aluminiumised steel and the brackets will probably just be steel - the two can be MIG'd together easily. i think they're just spot welded on as standard which isn't ideal. any garage should be able to sort that for you in minutes

does the Clio's wiring cope OK with higher wattage (off road) bulbs?

not much in it, but they're £58.05 at the moment on fasttyres.co.uk

i don't know what the differences are but there are two different racks fitted to the 172s - one made by TRW and the other by SMI. can't see why 172/182 racks should be any different but don't know

not sure if the Costco prices vary between stores as i was quoted over £90/ea at mine i think they're about £75/ea on fasttyres.co.uk

'tight' will be fine with an oridinary wheel brace but a torque wrench is handy to have anyway not sure what Paradas are like on track but have heard that they're good (Yokos always have been in my experience) but using new tyres isn't ideal as they'll be more prone to overheating and you...

was it a new box or was it 'reconditioned'. i'm on my second and rather suspect that the people who 'reconditioned' it just took it out, fixed the problem it had, sprayed it, and put it back in again. the gearboxes are sh*te though

was thinking of fan switches; couldn't be in the rad on reflection as you'd not get a reading until the 'stat opened!

i thought it sounded like an electrical (gauge/sender) problem as i wondered that, if the thermostat is open, the radiator should be full and circulating anyway (?). is the gauge sender in the radiator?

isn't that what test drives are for? tsk

PlusGas is a better dismantling lube but it's expensive and not as widely available as WD40

no bother:) - new manifold->cat fitting kit: cheapest from KTEC at about £20 (they're £40 from Renault at the moment..) but also check the link at the bottom of the post - new cat->system gasket (best to renew this anyway): part number 7700823540 £4 - new cat->system nuts/bolts: bolt is PN...

you might need a grinder if the cat->system nuts/bolts are in a particularly bad way worst case scenario: - new manifold->cat fitting kit - new cat->system gasket (best to renew this anyway) - new cat->system nuts/bolts - Loctite 5920 seems a good sealant if you still have blowing from the...

only problem with ramps is that you (obviously!) can't take the wheels off. i'd say two stands are fine for more or less everything - only time i've used four is to strip cars; you can make do with two by doing what you need at one end/side and then just swapping them over most important thing...

got fond memories of those my dad ran. the main one had all sorts in it - 356 engine (not as exciting as it sounds), IRS floorpan, pre-coloured FG wings imported from the US (one of which i remember scraping as i put it away in the garage - not popular). it was a '73 and i remember the plate he...

you seem able to pick up decent tyres for round-about the £55 mark - the OE Continentals are about that and there are a few others for similar money. it only seems to be the Michelins that are particularly expensive

only if they're below minimum thickness/in v poor condition

they're going to be so much easier to change over on a 182 and you can buy a new sealing ring for less than a fiver

yep - sorry; assumed that after i'd typed it:rolleyes:

you're sorted if you've got a pyrometer. i'd start with road pressures and go from there. you're measuring the temp across the tyre and aiming to get even temp across it - eg. pump them up if they're cold in the middle. there are a few things to think about (like the affect of suspension...