Search results

i used these before they were replaced by A539s. also surprised you've managed to find some as they're fairly old now. they're supposedly marginally better than A539s in the dry (didn't notice myself) and marginally worse than A539s in the wet (which was noticeable). not used them, but Paradas...

as above - felt as a juddering which (personally) i think is likely to be movement in the suspension bushes although lots suggest engine mounts

hadn't seen that^ before - dead handy!

ths Haynes manual's worth having as there are some common areas and it'll give you the gist of things otherwise

skimming the head needn't necessarily be expensive but the labour and sundry parts required will likely add up to quite a lot. last HG i had done cost £600+ and that was on a much less complicated engine and the parts were fairly cheap. sounds as though the garage's diagnosis is likely to be...

v handy; thanks

hydraulic specialist might still be able to help; worth a go anyway

have to call Renault to be sure but i think i've heard it suggested on here that it's about £175 - although parts prices do fluctuate if it's the rubber hose that's split, you may be able to have a hydraulic/PAS specialist renew that section of hose, rather than have to fit a new pipe...

has anyone got any of these 'GpN' mounts on order from KTEC? i'm trying to imagine why the gearbox one is more expensive than the top engine mount; would also be really interesting to read reports after they've been run for a little while

i know it's old but does anyone know how he was after that? can't have been well with a tonne of car spinning around on top of him + warm exhaust:eek:

if it's the Renault exhaust, the sleeve clamp is part nr. 7703083397 - about £20

about time; happy days!

sounds likely; that's where the pump is and, other than the pipes leading to and from it, there's nothing else PAS related in that area. hopefully it's just a slack union - the pipes are v expensive to replace if they've split

going to have to lift it up to have a good look underneath it; sounds like a split pipe/union if it's lost a lot of fluid suddenly

same tyre all round is going to help; if your PE2s are good, just buy another pair

^good idea

having changed the exhaust has made chuff all difference on mine. are substantial gains proven on the std engine? i'd be surprised as manufacturers generally do a very good job of designing systems for the compromise between power and noise. the OE system is straight through but is quiet due...

personally wouldn't hammer a tyre side wall; careful kick should do it. copper grease on the back of the wheel/hub mounting face will prevent it from reoccuring i guess you could use a block of wood to spread the load against the tyre/rim edge if you use a hammer

mine's done absolutely nothing for the power. there are other differences but the OE exhaust is straight through.

but exhausts don't add power? just character/better build/etc (unless the Kwikfit is particularly poor - ?) i'd go for the exhaust for those reasons but would have thought you'd be looking at either of the other two for an actual power increase?

odd, but coloured wheels always make me think of sweets. you've got almost all of the flavours so far, so i'll add Strawberry

i guess it's personal preference but i'd do everything you're going to to the engine and then have it set up on a RR (custom map) i guess there are tolerances in the fuelling/ignition but you're just not going to find the optimum map (for performance/efficiency - and reliability don't forget)...

put a decat on my Mk2 Stealth yesterday and it's hellishly noisy - embarassingly so. i know it's difficult to judge from videos but it seems much noiser than Mark's vid. it'll be coming off once i've had the cat bellmouth refaced (it's blowing and thought i'd try a decat to see if that 'fixes'...

yep; they firm the pedal up a little but the main benefit is in consistent performance on track - std rubber hoses will eventually expand with the heat of track use, giving you a softer pedal. you'll never notice on the road; therefore pointless in your case

the shells are actually quite strong due to their construction but, no, you wouldn't want to find out how that might work in practise. same with any small car, really. a mate had a coming together with a lad in a mini a little while ago - it was being driven both quickly and wrecklessly and it...

yeah - you brake for Tower from the left hand side of the track (obv.) and then have about 15ft of grass before you're into the tyre wall. at least you're (presumably) not injured - pretty high entry speed, although assume you were braking from it

feel for the OP - hope you can get it sorted without too much grief

why's that, Rich? i guess the Action Days are a no-no, but do the insurers also shy away from the 'proper' days?

that's most unfortunate and is the thing i dread doing on a track day; Tower's the nastiest corner for it, too. were you insured?

minis are A/F. you will need lots of tools.