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it's not, unfortunately - it is 8mm you can do it by hand and without removing the fuel rail guard, but it's just much easier to take it off - could use a box spanner if you've not a suitable socket

it is rather hidden away. wouldn't fancy having to ever replace the master cylinder!

top left hand corner of the bay, behind the engine.

also, don't tailgate cars as they go off-line and throw up all the litter at the side of the track..

haven't been to Hullavington, but the organisers are a really good bunch - can't go wrong

i quite like airfield days. they do tend to be harder on tyres but some circuits are quite harsh as well. better idea to start on an airfield rather than find yourself in trouble around Castle Coombe! who've you gone with Schweppy? Motorsport Events do a lot of local ones, are cheap, and well...

shouldn't ever need spare pads unless they need doing before you go a lot of them will hire out helmets but it's just nicer to have your own that fits and doesn't ming of other people's sweat might be an idea to take a very basic tool kit, zip ties, tank tape, etc - but, even if you don't...

have a look for Art Marcus's book, which is fairly comprehensive lots of really good advice already. it's a bit obvious, but try and get a good night's sleep beforehand, without booze; you'll need appropriate footwear, long trousers and long sleeves, too most of the thought goes into the...

thanks for the reply. so long as it's not going to cause any problems, i was hoping to fit the bits and have it mapped at a later date (money). sounds as though it needn't be an imperative?

apologies if this has been asked before. i'm considering AWT inlets and a de-cat, don't want to remap at the moment, and am wondering if they'll lean the mixture dangerously. are there cars running with these two mods that haven't been remapped?

need to remove the fuel rail guard to see it - there are pictures on search that'll show you what you're looking for no RS inlet on mine:dapprove:

it's in the top left hand corner of the bay, behind the engine.

actually wouldn't do much to mine and will probably get round to doing it all over time anyway: clutch refurb wheels have it de-dented uprate front brakes de-cat, remap possibly, pair of Pro2000 seats

the coolant temperature gauge. steam doesn't sound good but there may be a harmless explanation

went out in a friend's S1 Elise on track a few weeks ago - he'd just fitted £4k's worth of suspension and tyres - not saying much, but i don't think i've been in anything with as much grip; was quite alarming to begin with! great cars

was also thinking there's no way you'd not get that off with mole grips - it's only a small union and, even if it is seized, there can't be much torque required to undo it. only potential problem with mole grips is that it looks as though you've not much room to be turning them within the...

don't know how the non-Cups feel, but the front end of mine is quite nervous - think it's just the way they're set up. has yours become gradually worse? (tyres/pressures/tracking/bottom arm inner bushes/+)

should think it'll come on if you leave it idling for 10mins (after having warmed it up) keep an eye on the gauge and turn it off if it doesn't. mine cuts in a little past half way on the dial but not sure if that's typical alternatively, if you can find the connector plug, you'd probably...

might need to take it to an autoelectrician unless it's a common problem and someone can advise. they'll all be on the same circuit, so may be it's a problem with the fuse box - could try checking the terminals (etc) in the box edit. or may be the column switch. it'll be something in the...

keep an eye on the level to be sure it isn't leaking - potentially expensive problem if it is

- remove the battery (exposing the mount) - support the gearbox with a trolley jack - remove the three bolts/nut.. the nut in the centre of the mount will likely be tight - 'shock' it round to start it. the nuts that hold the mount to the alloy armature aren't captive, so you'll need to catch...

thought this might be of interest to those who don't need all of the components that are supplied in the kit BOSAL can supply quite a few of the components individually, so you can save some money if you only need certain bits. i've not tried to find out about all of the bits, but here are a...

slot mags definitely don't suit it!

it's not easy to get to or inspect; you could try using a handlamp and an inspection mirror before having to dismantle it

i *think* they are the same for the 172 and 182. KTEC offer them at about £20, which is half what Renault are charging at the mo. it's possible you might be able to get the individual bits from an exhaust specialist - i'm going to take bits of one i've taken off to a local outfit tomorrow to...

aye - that's the centre silencer

should be OK on a private driveway

some cars have a hydraulic clutch that uses the same type of fluid; the RS Clios have a cable clutch

Renault's schedule is plugs @ 72k and fuel filter @ 144k

the undertray, if fitted, is the plastic tray bolted to the underside of the subframe. engine cover would have to come off, too you're just taking the weight of the engine with the jack - not lifting it too much you might find it takes some effort to 'crack' the nuts that bolt the alloy...