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they're dead easy - 10 minute job once you know what you're doing

i thought the book pressures were 33F/30R. not had any issues running mine with those anyway also, it's important to use an accurate pressure gauge as those on footpumps and garage forecourts can be all over the place

my old 205 would pop, bang and flame on track - unburnt fuel and a v hot exhaust i read somewhere that BMW's Mini Turbo has been mapped (by the factory!) to inject fuel to create this effect; it shuts the function down if there's any danger of CAT damage

same as the non-cups i believe, although you do see some that have had the door pillar badges stuck on to the bootlid retrospectively

tried taking some of mine but it's difficult to see what's going on due to strong sunlight and shadow under the car it'll be hanging low due to the bends in the system pipes in/out of the silencer box and the height at which those pipes are welded to the box. if you look at the OE system, the...

ktec on mine hangs quite low, too. can probably take a picture tomorrow

good idea to make sure the tiny boots over the sliders are located over their lips after you've done as well, as they easily pop off whilst fiddling

on reflection, drilling/bracket probably not the best idea. may be you can get short extenders that have a loop on one end and an eye bolt on the other? the expensive option is starting to look likely if that's what you want to do - and the aircraft release harnesses are much fiddlier to use

you want to sleeve them over the roll bar? just had a quick flick through the DT catalogue and it seems they don't advertise any cheap harnesses that are configured like that - only the expensive pro harnesses. unless you can find some, you're either going to have to pay (much!) more or drill...

:slap: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/search.asp?keyword=901020NP&classCode=MSPORT&brandCode=all or http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/search.asp?keyword=901070NP&classCode=all&brandCode=all&x=30&y=8 you need to decide how you're going to mount them before ordering whichever...

have another look - they sell loads:)

more about it here: http://www.fullpowerteam.com/400-da-run-drag-f51/opel-manta-vmax-t5508.htm

seems pretty good; probably not going to be able to save much on that. equivalent A048 would probably cost you £80-90 and the Dunlops might be even more expensive. Kumho and Hankook both do similar types of tyre but don't know anything about them. could probably get a set of part worn...

A0 Yokos are better, too - but they're all quite a bit more expensive than the 888s

the sports are more performance orientated than the premiums. just to make matters even more confusing, there are 3 versions of the Contisports the older versions will be cheaper and there's probably not a deal of difference between them all

also tyre shopping at the mo and think i'll be going with the Continentals this outfit is the cheapest i've found online so far by the way: http://www.fasttyres.co.uk/results2.php

do you mean the split in the foam liner?

really like the look of the Wiesmann GT: and, being a little more realistic, would quite like one of these some day:

it's an old experience and they may be better than they were, but the three point Sabelts i've had in the past just weren't much good. i remember they used to slacken at the shoulder straps fairly quickly - was annoying having to tighten them all the time; don't get the same problem with the...

personally, i'd pay a little more and buy a better harness - Merlin keep Willans harnesses which are much better than the cheaper Sabelt ones

i think the EVO 0-100 is something like 18s and 0-60 is sub 7s; so the time posted isn't much different

not sure if this is do-able, but you could look at removing the other lamp cluster to plug it into the connector on the faulty side: that way you'll know if it's the cluster or the wiring/connector

try disturbing the plug into the lamp cluster to see if it's not just a poor connection there

as someone else has suggested, CAB might be your best strating point if the dealer strings you along. i thought that all second hand cars sold through a dealer were covered by a statutory 3 month warranty (by law) - is that not the case? not that these 'warranties' cover much, though.. i...

save it for servicing or when it next breaks although an exhaust will add character if you want to spend it all now (or could go for second hand). brakes would be the first thing i'd do if i didn't want to spend that much though

i'm looking for a cheap source for a couple of Contisportcontacts - can anyone advise? not keen on paying best part of £100ea and, with Contis on the back and 539s on the front, i'd like to restore the balance in the chassis (currently understeers rather impressively on track). also, i've been...

if you were prepared to take the hit involved in buying a brand new 197, why not try and find a similar spec car second hand (avoiding that initial depreciation)? sounds as though you've already done the 1*2 thing, having run a couple of modified ones, and had wanted to move on - would it...

looking much better. weird it's missing the spoiler; might just be me but it looks a little high on its springs too (?) any closer to sorting the engine bother today?

i've been reasonably impressed with the torque from mine from low revs - i think it pulls well for a relatively peaky engine. can you drive another car to be sure it's not just your perception? have you checked your plugs for colour?

apart from the potential hassle of stuff otherwise being seized/corroded, there's very little room to be working on the manifold->cat joint. it's not difficult - you've just got to give yourself a lot of time and be patient you'll need an assistant, too