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ah, right. i've got a couple of new&unused nuts (2nd in from the left) if they're what you need (just PM me your address - but, please, only if you do actually need them:) ). if you need the upper-most securing nut, it's pressed into the cup shown on the far left; i think it's available as...

that's the top spring pan/cup. just out of interest, what's happened to yours?

the spring? (??) there's an image of the strut components in this link (courtesy, fubar): http://fubarnet.com/front_shocks.html

apart from the emissions and the headlamp aim, they are all things that you could have checked out beforehand, but, got to sympathise with people who either can't or don't have the time to be doing that as the MoT test is now a rip-off. costs about £40-£50 and, unless you know someone who is...

oil-coolant-screenwash-brake fluid-PAS fluid (at least until you're sure it's not leaking anyway)-tyre pressures i can't do those pointy-arrow photoshop things but have you got a Haynes manual or the owner's manual? (as they show you what's what under the bonnet)

it is an 063 and is 8" inches long i think your problem might be normal as it's very tight by the top inlet to the airbox. the filter box can be moved a little in its mountings, but not by much. should still be possible to get the hose in and out though

hang on, i'll go and have a look

lol. if you ask for the right size, it'll then fit:rasp: i'd search to check first, though

i think it's a type 063 (?)

just re-visited this - thanks for the replies. that's what i think i'm going to do; use some sort of paste at the cat/system joint and see if it can be realigned at the cat/mani whilst the system's off (again..) cheers

Pwnd by Toad of Toad Hall in an 80yo car

just out of interest, had my CAT back KTEC2 noise tested the other day and it returned a pitiful 88dB (car's otherwise unmodified)

only skimmed so might be repeating but am thinking of the original Lotus Elan and Caterham Seven

the DVLA (or whoever it is) could probably advise - ? do they? some clubs run registers and have people who have been able to obtain info like this i think that 2400 number is the number of UK registrations - ?

be surprising if that many have fallen off the road already - is that an official DVLA number or something?

i thought they generally made mid-160s, so (depending upon accuracy of RR..) he's got an extra 10-ish-bhp and and extra 15-ish-lbft. depends what it's had done to it but you'd generally expect more of a power increase than a torque increase, hence seems unusual (IMO) do they see book torque on...

thanks - likewise, thinking paste isn't the best at a joint like that. the springs are both fully compressed and the CAT's a reasonable fit over the ring as far as i can see/feel. there's clean metal (of varying thickness) around the inside of the CAT bellmouth, but quite a lot of pitting at...

mine was advertised by a dealer as having ABS; i think some just don't realise it doesn't have it. gone off the brakes in mine (and especially after a brief track outing yesterday) - defo need looking at for half serious driving

power isn't far off std but the torque's much higher - depends if/how it's been tuned i guess, but doesn't seem right on the face of it

fitted a new sealing ring/kit to the manifold/CAT joint on my car yesterday and it's still blowing. the CAT's original; i noticed that the sealing faces at either end are quite badly pitted and am wondering if they're not sealing for that reason. does this seem a resonable assumption and...

if you're only interested in experiencing one, i'd feel better about visiting a dealer. not really fair bothering a private seller whereas most s/h car dealers (not those on here, obviously) are shysters. easier to feel better about it that way.

there's loads you can do to minis to help them cope with big power conversions, but it all costs and can involve quite a bit of re-engineering. the tiny wheelbase doesn't help at all (pick ups and estates are longer and better for it) but, if you've a quick, sorted one, they're real giant killers

power seems low from your current engine but then there are so many different A Series engines, in different states of tune, i guess. good luck with the turbo conversion (supposed to be quite a bit of a plumming and wiring involved); an extra 100bhp should be terrifying in a mini! do you...

you're effectively highering the gearing by raising the rolling radius of the tyre. to estimate how far out your speedo might be, you just need to know the difference in the size of the two tyres: eg. 195/45/16; 195 is the width of the tyre in mm; 45 is the aspect ratio in the sidewall (ie...

copper grease is essential (really); the bolts are high tensile steel and the wheels are aluminium - they react and the aluminium will corrode making removal of the studs difficult after time

it's v difficult to judge from videos as they don't ever give you a particularly good idea. it's a sound recording of someone else's exhaust/car made using a crappy video camera microphone, replayed through your crappy PC speakers. i've a KTEC Mk2 and it's not at all raspy or loud on mine...

this is only a guess, but might that be related to the cancellation ring for the indicators? ed. check by pulling indicator stalk up/down and then spinning the disc to see if that cancels the indicators. does look like a cancellation ring to me

really quite surprised at mine - for the type of car, it's excellent low-mid 40s from mine at 70mph (drops significantly at higher cruising speeds), with an average of low-mid 30s from mixed road driving.

was there on Thursday! see you've managed to find a quiet spot for pictures which isn't easy. stunning scenery running up and down that road; i took a couple myself but photos just don't seem to convey the scene. nice just to meander up relatively slowly, exhaust note bouncing off the shallow...

is this a u-bolt clamp you've had to cut off? they usually have the size stamped on the clamp (might need to wire brush it to find it). failing that (and assuming it's not the bottom part you've cut up), just measure across the top of the clamp putting things back together with copper grease...