Search results

i think there's an element of luck involved - good and bad boxes. i can change gear, thank-you!;)

mine's high and was in the others i drove too. during a recent inspection it was noted that the clutch was less than half worn at 40k - so they're hopefully good for 100k+. shame the gearboxes aren't!

have a quick ganders on search - loosening the four top mount bolts and levering the mount as far forward as poss (towards the front of the car) is supposed to help. if it doesn't and your mounts are all tight, i'd start replacing them.

it's VOSA: http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicle/Mot/DG_4022113

ignorance really is bliss and i've honestly never had a car that makes so many 'it shouldn't do that' mechnical noises but, trim wise, been fairly lucky by the sounds of it - just the clock surround rattles intermittently

^you'll be fine:)

the white powder will just be corrosion - scratch harder, it'll come away - use an electrical screwdriver or something similar. the vaseline/white grease will protect the terminals from corroding again and promote conductivity - i'd suggest giving it a good go as it may well save you some money:)

is this the rear light cluster? i've had bother with mine too - the plugs seem a very weak design. i ended up cleaning up the pins, spraying everything with white grease (vaseline would do) and reassembling carefully - been fine since but probably only a matter of time

the modern machines are multi-media though - they'd not want to build something that had to play DVDs/Blueray (or whatever the fudge is going on with that stuff now-a-days) AND load cartridges. imo

faulty tyre?

when you say it's wearing like a 50p piece, is it flat spotted?

i don't normally pay attention to these things but it did look smart, parked where it was on its own. perhaps the owner was trying to keep it away from the local shoppers, who seem unable to get out of their cars without leaving dents in the side of other people's :rolleyes:

was it tucked away in the corner by the bus stop? might have seen that myself in the same spot this afternoon!

on a road car, there's a danger that they'll: - be very noisy (you might sound like a S1 Landrover, whiring down the road) - wear extremely quickly; typical road tyre tread wear rating might be 300 whereas typical track tyre might be 80 - be dangerous in standing water - cost twice as much as a...

sound proofing the boot will help but it's probably easier just to replace the exhaust system or add another/bigger silencer.

that's definitely had it and with some style! presume you can get replacement inner boots; the driveshaft will need to come off to fit it and you'll therefore need to replace the gear oil too. has it been split long? as you'll have got all sorts of grit in there too, which will accelerate wear...

use something like Castrol Moly grease - they sell it in Halfords

ed. double post

check that the lower nut on the upper gearbox mounting (the one under the battery) is tight - mine keeps working loose and causes all sorts of noises; i believe it's a common problem. access to the nut is very tight but you can just about get to it from the wheel arch. might be easier if you...

i love driving in the snow although we've not really had the chance down here for a few years. this is really, really dumb:o but i used to take a jacket, a shovel and some old carpet (for traction, if needs be) and go for short drives around the deserted country lanes around where i live -...

thanks for the reply; that's good news then - at least it doesn't require immediate replacement. i checked the top mount in-situ - looks ok to me. i was checking them all due to the return of knocking noises - turned out it was the upper g'box mount lower nut having worked loose again

right; i think i've done all i can by using a t-bar on the top nut to twist the mount whilst tightening the lower nut with a spanner . can anyone confirm that the lower g'box mount in the picture is shot? i'm assuming it has torn away from the upright part on the right hand side - ?

i'm looking at my engine mounts at the moment and am wondering if there's an 'easy' way to tighten the lower nut on the upper gearbox mount - ? i've got the battery and the airbox out of the way but there's still not much room to swing anything really:dapprove: ed. also, i'm assuming this...

^if they have them, there'll be grooves cut in the pad material (eg. http://www.toyotapartsstore.com/images/brake_pads.jpg)

sounds as though you've a problem with the standard set-up. i'd check for contamination of disc/pad and change brake fluid first

anti clockwise. they can be properly tight though - i took mine to a garage to have them whiz them off with an air gun

missing tyre foam's the least of your potential problems! lol the door pillar badges can come off in the wash - they're about £12 per side from dealers (part number 7711 291177)

as old as the wind but i'm sure it 'only' had 600bhp last time i saw it!

if it's for the rears, then it is possible to get kits of the slider, pin and springs. i've had them from High Street parts shops but don't know if they're available from Renault. it's worth bearing in mind that these (rear) calipers have been used by Renault-Peugeot-Citroen on *a lot* of...

won't be pretty and guess there could be issues with the offset (?) but wouldn't steels be both cheap and light?