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are you sure it hasn't always done it? slight pull to the left is to be expected as cars with sensitive steering will follow the camber of the road which, in the UK, is to the left to allow for drainage

aren't Paradas also on the way out?

i was last sold Evolution SXR by my dealer and told that it had replaced Excellium LDX - ?

also guessing that must be bottom arm/balljoint related. i had a tie bar snap on a mini at speed - not a pleasant experience. it's a very serious failure - Renault will want to inspect it thoroughly. i'd be v surprised if they don't do all they can to help.

was also going to suggest mole grips; not always viable though

did the AA guy explain what had gone wrong? i'm not familiar with the Clio window mechanism but, if it's the same as most others, it sounds as though one of the slider wheels has come out of its channel in the bottom of the glass. difficult to explain but, if this is what's happened, you...

i think it looks good - purposeful the plate's strangely interesting to me too as mine's on its original WR52 plate at the mo but did, apparently, have a 'WRC' private plate on it at some point; both cars are fairly local too - may just be coincidence though

after use, the friction surfaces of the disc will look no different had they started out coloured or uncoloured - either way, they'll end up with bare metal surfaces where the pads have worn the disc. you can get discs that are coloured (black) on the non friction bearing surfaces but i don't...

carbon ceramic? aren't they a dull grey colour? can't think of anything else; cast iron's obviously out!

lol:)

could they have fitted switchable ABS? on for the road, off for the track? i find mine quite easy to lock up - fine in normal driving but i wouldn't fancy things much in an emergency stop situation

Re: Standard vs uprated brake pads unless you're a very spirited road driver (read: nutter) or are using the car for track days, in my opinion, uprated pads/discs are a waste of money. even Greenstuffs need a couple of decent high speed shoves to get them up to the kind of temperature at which...

Re: Standard vs uprated brake pads trying to help here; what are you trying to achieve by uprating your brakes? there are lots of things you can be doing to improve your brakes but you will alter their feel in doing so. if all you're doing is looking to replace the discs and pads with...

mine was advertised as having ABS; the seller was confused

have a look on somewhere like ECP/GSF the more expensive batteries will have longer guarantees

£30-£40

quiver at the might of.. THE MoT TESTER!

it'll be fine. just make sure you're using half decent jump leads - some of the thinner ones are dangerous.

driveshafts is the worst case scenario - try some of the free/cheap stuff first to see if that helps. i'd start by having have a go at taking the wheels off and putting them back on in a different position to see if that does anything. check they're true whilst you've got them off - if you've...

take it to the tip? advertise it 'free to collector' in the local paper? or just leave it outside your gate; pikeys will undoubtably spirit it away in the night

prices vary but my dealer wants £80 for the key and £40 to code it; £120 all in

take it it wasn't the tracking then? only asking as that would've been my guess sorry - fairly useless post!

s'up? could be for one or more reasons; not an exhaustive list: - mismatched tyres/pressures - wheel/hub imbalance (just refit the wheels/studs in different positions to see if that helps) - tracking/steering gear problem - bottom arm bushes - driveshafts

if the rears performed as the fronts do, you'd end up with locked rears. this is fairly simple to visualise if you imagine a car braking: the tyres are the only point of contact with the road and, due to the action of the springs in the suspension, the body mass shifts forward under braking...

^think you're spot on there if they're borderline, i'd change them to be on the safe side. you obviously risk a re-test fee otherwise.

what are you trying to do? haven't read everything but have you got to change your pads for the MoT and you're wondering if you should go for uprated parts? if so, TBH, i'd stick with standard

^ as above. it's not confusing; those are the test regulations. they're open to interpretation though. no one's going to be able to tell you your car will or won't pass but you can make an educated guess about your chances by reading and applying the above to your own car.

http://www.ukmot.com/3-5.asp#Text_top (check point f.) in reality it's going to depend upon the tester - one might give you an advisory note whereas another might fail you and another might not even bother looking

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7F6_s_zn34 obviously.

they're not too bad for torque steer imo; rubbish road surfaces don't help though