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Struggler, the leather seats ARE NOT 15kg heavier than the cup seats. The cup seats are cloth because it's cheap, not because it's light. The ph1 is not any faster than a cup, in actual fact, there's more difference between one ph1 and another than there is between the ph1, ph2, cup, 182 etc...
About £2.3k will buy you something mechanically sound but not pristine.
If you don't like the ph1 then it definitely has to be the cup. Get looking! There's all the guides you could ever need on here.
A phase 1 isn't 'hardcore'. A cable throttle doesn't make a car automatically hardcore.
I do agree though, that for £2k, I'd be looking for a ph1. If you could stretch to £2.5k then you're in the running for a nice cup.
I'm pretty sure it didn't sell so he decided to keep it. But, that perfectly demonstrates why modding clio's is a terrible plan. It probably cost him £10,000. It's only worth doing serious work to it if you plan on keeping it / have too much money and are bored IMO
I believe Dave saw 190hp with cams? Head work is difficult on these... I'm going to have a go myself in a couple of weeks, just to see what is possible. It's by no means common though.
210hp is doable with ITB's and cams.
The cup is the lightest yeah, 89kg lighter.
Cup. Lighter = better. Not having aircon/climate control means you don't lose the 7 or so hp required to run it, cambelt is cheaper too. Plus, afaik, buying a cup makes you more manly than those homos with their abs.
They're a nightmare to tune because you have to spend a lot of money to get...
Why ask and then not listen? Fred has given you the answer.... Camber bolts will allow you to have camber. Raising the rear might make the ride a little less crashy, but it will make little difference to the handling.
A geometry setup is what you need. Corner weighting is a bit pointless unless...
Maybe it's just me, but brakes aren't something I'd scrimp on.
The ferrodo DS performance that I had before my DS2500's were perfectly adequate for road use and reasonably priced.
I forgot about that actually! Someone asked the courier for the collection address and they said it was from goodridge. That makes me feel a lot better. Pretty sure he must just leave the branding off so he doesn't get in trouble.
It did occur to me that maybe he removed the goodridge band to save himself from trouble if he got caught? Perhaps he works for them, makes the hoses to goodridge spec, but doesn't brand them to avoid copyright issues.
I recieved some 'goodridge' braided hoses this morning, but they don't seem to have any branding on them at all? I thought all goodridge hoses had the yellow goodridge bands around them?
Can anyone clarify whether they're genuine or not please? The box looks genuine....
If you buy anything other than a yozza, you will, at some point, hear a 182 with a yozza. Whatever you have will swiftly end up in the for sale section.
Save yourself the trouble, buy a yozza to start with.
Lol. You've been on here 5 years and don't know what a remap is? CS has failed you!
Basically, they plug your ECU into a computer and change the way it controls things a little bit.
There is a risk, but as long as you go to a trusted, experienced mapper, it's very very low indeed.
A remap is...
Lol. I'm sure I can buy a friend for a few hours or something.
I've just never used the tools before, I've always just heard them slated for not working properly so hadn't bothered.
I'm giving the car a good service before the Bedford trackday. I've bought new rear discs, pads and braided hoses so will need to change the fluid.
Are there any bleed tools/kits that actually work properly?