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As above - They aren't a service item, so only replace if you are having trouble with one fitted.

Just take it back and let them deal with it. You shouldn't need to diagnose the problem for them.

Do you have any old broadband routers knocking about? I use a second router I had as a wireless access point. You just need to turn off DHCP on the second router, so the main router allocates the IP addresses. I even have mine set up with the same WIFI broadcast name(s) and passwords, so...

have a go yourself? You could get all the gear for less that it will cost you to get it done by someone. Depends if you have the time/patience/skill to do it or not though I suppose! Something like this from Dom @ Shop 'n Shine would do the trick I would think...

I picked up a Makita 1/4 drive impact driver off Amazon last week. As I already have a drill with 2 batteries and a charger it only cost me £55. 160nm too, and I've tested it on the wheel bolts, and it easily get's them to 125-130NM. Great tool to have!

Be careful using a lump hammer on it, don't want to damage the threads. I had a similar issue at the weekend on my Mini, I used a socket over the hub nut (with the nut backed off), a lump hammer and some heat. It eventually went.

Have any of the cars you have used this method on had ABS? As its a sure fire way to get air in the ABS pump, and without CLIP or similar, you aren't getting it out again.

I'm one of the ones that has Sky Q @ £35 a month, that's for the 2gb main box and a second box, all channels inc movies and sport. I got the deal last year, at the time they were offering a free TV with the Sky Q packages. I had no need for a TV, so used the online chat facility to negotiate a...

I don't use Kodi myself, I just know folk who do (using decent kit) and they have regular issues. I have Sky Q (which only costs me £35 a month for 2 boxes and all channels) and VM Vivid 200 BB. I use Plex for downloaded content streaming. Works well enough for me, and I can't see what I would...

I'm pretty sure the engine builder will give you some pointers

Ahh, I get you now!

Clutch and slave cylinder is £220 from RPD, might be worth doing the lot while it's apart?

I was just typing something similar. I can't see why @Christopher couldn't start his car?

I'm guessing because the clutch wasn't fully engaging/disengaging due to the slave cylinder. Essentially the same as trying to put it in gear without the use of the clutch. Did it grind when you tried to put it in gear with the engine running?

Possible slave cylinder issue?

I'd happily pay the £86/m just to avoid Kodi tbh

Which filter is going to be original at 65k? Other than the fuel filter all the rest should have been replaced multiple times by now? Who did the belts out of interest?

I think the 440 miles from Edinburgh to Beaulieu might be a problem for the OP! :tongueout:

So - basically you want somewhere free to park your Clio V6? What would the Renault dealership be gaining from this deal? Other than having to look after/protect/insure your car? Surely they would rather have something in the showroom that they can use to advertise/sell the current range of...

Second hand engine with belts done not a better option?

I've managed to avoid it so far, and I sold my 197 back in Feb 2014. Time yet though.

£20k and they couldn't even throw a bucket of water over it?!

CS to the rescue again!

I'm sure I've read that they are too short from ECP. There's an ebay seller or similar that folks use. Someone will be along I'm sure.

https://www.extendoffice.com/documents/excel/1494-excel-highlight-active-row-and-column.html#a1 This is the closest I can find, but it highlights the whole row/column.

It says 'Noise levels without catalyst are 71dB at idle and 88dB at 4500 rpm'. You should be fine mate

PMS website only list it with a centre silencer. You should be fine @Speedy300 http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/clio-2-rs182/clio-2-rs182-exhaust/182-racing-exhaust-system.html

Has any proper diagnostics been done? Or have the AA folks come out, fiddled with some connections under the bonnet and sent you on your way? If the temp light is flashing up, have you checked the water temp to make sure it's a false reading and not actually boiling up? It's French, and old...

Ahh yes, tight cable ties restricting the flow of electricity - common that.

Are you calculating it properly or replying on the on board figures the car provides? The only true way is to brim the tank. Drive it for a few days and fill it again. You can then see EXACTLY how much fuel has been used over what distance.