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I had a 1991 swift gti too, very quick little car for what it is!

Or it could be the air temp sensor as the fault code says? What is the temperature reading on live data?

If you told us what car it was it would help.

Not that hard at all. Get the tracking done when your done too.

Diesel leak would of been the return rail. Common on them. I dont think the 2 will be related. Clip is the system used by Renault.

There WILL be a fault logged if the check injection warning light came on. Take it to some one with clip. I dont really know of any issues with the 106's though, there a pretty reliable motor! Possible boost pressure sensor maybe i suppose.

Pitty, my mrs goes to bournemouth uni and i regularly go there to visit. But shes just finished for xmas!

Blown fuse

People get confused with "limp mode" on here. Its normally only "turned on" when there is a fault with the FBW throttle as it is a failsafe alowing you to get off the motor way etc. The 1.2's have numerous problems with throttle bodys/wireing looms and even throttle pedals. Best get it checked out.

jealous

TDC, hardly ever flags a fault code/warning light.

I had sportex on previous cars, very good fitting wise. Sound good too. Dont let the cheap price put you off.

Yep, any fluctuation in the rear sensor would indicate catalyst fault.

I wouldnt of said they were linked. Does it drive ok?

Solid red imobiliser light means the imobiliser light isnt being recieved by the injection computer (or the injection computer is not communicating). This Normally happends after you change the battery. Try, turning the ignition on (but not starting it) for about 30 seconds. Then off. Then...

Bit over the top if you ask me!!

What is the red imobiliser light doing when you turn the ignition on? It should be flashing slowly when the ignition is off, turn the ignition on and it should go solid for 2 seconds then go out completely. Make sure it does that, its the 1st thing to do.

Deffo not renault mate.

I would go for a gates timing belt, an INA pulley kit and a genuine aux belt kit.

Errrm, how does that make them idiots?

FBW throttle wont be a problem, use a clio pedal and just match your 6 wires from the pedal to the ECU. 2x 5v lives 2x earths and 2x signal wires.

If the twingo box will fit the F4R the clutch will be hydraulic with a concentric slave cylinder (inside the bell housing). Exhaust i Imagine would have to be a custom job to match the two together. Electrics - You would have to speak to the likes of Foxy and the others who have put the f4r...

Clio has a selector rod underneath the car. Twingo has 2x cables that locate ontop of the box. I think the easiest thing would be to use 172 box with the rod and gearstick assembly and make it fit your twingo. Twingo is micra/clio 2 based so driveshafts shouldnt be a major issue. Was yours...

Twingo should be a JH3 box yes. I had a 172 but now have got a 1.5 dci (long story). I am senior technician at Harts Dealer in Honiton, if you need any help just ask.

Check the arm on the rear height adjuster hasnt fallen off.

Crank sensor problem by the sounds of it

Should be a JH3

ooooooooook.........

Common problem for them to split. ;) I'v seen loads