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My own personal view would be yes, provided it was in a top notch condition. History is always important on any car, but by how much is anybody’s guess. As it stands it looks like a tired old RB.
You won't get a brand new genuine one but Shaftec supply refurbished genuine ones. I'd highly recommend one of those.
More money than the J&R but they're essentially a refurbished genuine part. You want R396R (OSF - Drivers) replaces 8200352042 and R396L (NSF - Passenger) replaces 8200372167.
I did mine at Christmas but was unaware the unit pulls apart and the buttons are easily transferred. Thank you to @SharpyClio for the tip.
So I bought a second-hand unit, not sure if it worked or not, and just switched everything over. Now I've got 1 really nice unit out of 2.
My old BG 182 did this for a year. Started fine, then parked it up and then wouldn’t start. Did 3,000 trouble free miles, then one cold winters evening coming out of work, wouldn’t crank. Changed TDC, starter motor, switched UCH, ECU, got an auto electrician out to remove the immobiliser part of...
Where’s it up for sale at? There’s some history of it here https://www.renaultsportclub.co.uk/forum/general-forums/car-blogs/98033-clio-182-liquid-yellow
A trip down to Matlock yesterday to pick up a genuine unopened front splitter from @Coops Mk1
Had to remortgage the house 😂 but needs must. Cheers fella and lovely to meet you.
To be honest that rust on the back arch needs some serious TLC and it’s likely to be in other places as well. With that mileage, I can’t see anybody wanting to spend that sort of money, to then go through the pain of restoring that. The colour is a big plus.
If I was buying it I’d be turning it...
With all these for sale posts, without pictures and detail, it’s difficult for anybody to say.
Just do a detailed write up, get some good pictures and then put a for sale post for what YOU think it’s worth. You’ll soon find out if people are interested or not, then you can always adjust and go...
I would’ve thought the opposite would happen. I.E when the clutch is pressed in, the noise goes away as everything is under load.
With that age and mileage on the original clutch, I’d bet it’s the bearing thrust guide.
When mine went it rattled when you pressed the clutch in, not when it was...
I think this should be it for the RB project now with the exception of a couple of parts, some of which I've already sourced but not yet fitted. Still on the lookout for a pipe going from the actuator to the airbox (there is one for sale on here but it's part of an airbox and not available as a...
I've got another set identical to those Darryl. The lad from who I bought the RB from only had 3 Turini's so bought a spare off me. They were in the colour on your BG. He just went to the same place I go and had the other 3 refurbished in the same colour.
I used to run TD Pro Race 15s on that...
I took the engine out when I did mine as I needed to access other parts, but I've had the subframe off with the engine in. The top engine mount is sitting on the body and the battery support above the gearbox is bolted in, so it won't go anywhere.
Not a massive job with the subframe off, just a few bolts at the bottom of the gearbox to remove, then the bolts out of the sump.
My BG sump was leaking in multiple places, including the crankshaft oil seal, but primarily from the corner near the starter.
Great opportunity to get it aqua...
Money is strong for a non cup 172 but the clean cars are fetching mad prices. i can’t see it flying out at that money, but I get the impression the seller isn’t in a rush to sell. I was surprised you never bought that Blue 182 in Scotland. The new owner’s on here and it looked a proper car. But...
I’ve seen this car in the flesh. It's just up the road from where I live (well 10 miles up the road). I didn’t chat to the owner as it was parked up at a retailer outlet, but I had a good glance around the outside and remember thinking wow, what a clean looking car. Obviously I know nothing...