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It aint the imobiliser if the light is going solid then going out after 3 seconds. The crank sensor is on top of the bell housing. Has two wires going too it. You will need to remove the airbox to get at it.

Is the imobiliser light going off? Is the fuel pump priming? Give the crank sensor connector a wiggle if both of the above are ok. Failing that, possibly an injection locking relay problem in the fuse/relay box.

Tensioner needs to be worked anti clockwise then clock wise. Not alot of people know/do that. The two locking pins are essential.

Sounds normal to me.

Renault may not sell the bearing seperatly. But you can get FAG bearings from your local factor which is OE quality.

There plastic. I cant really see a way to "bodge" this safely. See if the part can be deliverd maybe?

Its the 8v e7j engine. Personally I wouldnt be messing with the throttle body/air filter set up on this engine as they can be very tempermentle. The plastic throttle body is under the big housing on top and this actually holds the throttle body in place. So without it it will just flap about...

Doesnt mean new discs. You can get the bearing on its own. Remove disc, press out old press in new and refit. Bearing is around £30 plus fitting.

It means there is still a door or bonnet open. The only thing they would of touched would be the switch on the slam panel for the bonnet. Check that is plugged in.

Some early phase twos had them aswell.

The one you went to was, not all of them thanks. Clio 2 imobilisers go crazy espesially when the battery has gone flat. The ECU seems to loose the imob code. The imob light stays solid and the starter cranks and then stops itself after 1 second. If you get in the car, close the door...

I 2nd that.

Before you do anything get someone else to yank the bonnet while you pull the lever. They stick all the time. If the cable has snapped, after you remove the under tray, you can get to the release from under the car with a long screwdriver.

To perminantly fix fault 1 you will have to cut the grey and yellow conectors out from under the seats and solder the wires together. Fault to will be the speedo transducer in the back of the gearbox. Do a search it has been covered many times. Washer jets could be a muiltitude of things from...

You have probably blown one of the main fuses on the positive terminal.

It sounds like either the pads moving slightly in the calipers or Ball joint. Try getting a levering the ball joint down away from the hub, see if theres movement.

Clio 2's go crazy when the battery has gone flat. The ECU seems to loose the imob code. The imob light stays solid and the starter cranks and then stops itself after 1 second. If you get in the car, close the door, turn the ignition on for 30 secs, then off, lock and unlock the doors and start...

Normal whining noise is the lower aux belt idler but as yours is a cup, it wont have one. What was replaced on your cambelt change? Full kit?

I take it the imobiliser light stays solid?

Tourques or tools?

Sounds like you have two faults, poor connection on the rear light clusters and a faulty speedo transducer.

Have this problem day in day out on d4f. The main problem is poor connections to the throttle body inside the manifold.

The injector wells need to be very clean and carbon free for a perfect seal.

Its the re circ motor for the climate control. New one needed :)

Sounds like its chuffing out of the injector seal. Just remove the injector and replace the copper washer. Should sort it out.

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1740367.htm

Brill project!

Your key's naff mate. Dont replace the batteries, waste of time.

Looks like some one maybe dropped the subframe on them. If you get what i mean.

Im currently looking for a dci 80! If only you were a little closer!