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You wouldn't run 55+ tyres, that's a ridiculous thing to say. 195/50/15 is what I've got. The difference between a 45profile and a 50 is tiny anyway.
You're just being a tool. That tyre is not a 20 or 25 profile tyre, 35 perhaps.
As kam says, those aren't really low profile tyres though are they? Also, driven wheels on race cars tend to have a deeper profile tyre due to their ability to store torque, aiding launch.
Having low profile tyres on a road also massively increases bump steer, tramlining and understeer/oversteer.
It's tyre dependant, I'm assuming they used the same tyres across every test.
But you won't find a race car that uses low profile tyres, so that says it all for me.
^^^^
This is for linear acceleration, And assuming equal weight distribution across the wheel. The true equation is a horribly complicated logarithmic job. But the point is the same.
The difference is greater the more power you have too.
It's both actually. For anyone that cares....
The laws of physics rule here. Energy is needed to bring the wheel/tire mass up to speed (mph) and to spin it to the related rpm. Consider a lighter tire/wheel combo:
m = mass reduction
I = inertia reduction
w = rotational speed
v = car speed
r =...
The main handling difference is due to the reduced gyroscopic effect due to less wheel weight, the car will turn in sharper and should reduce understeer.
Also less weight to accelerate and decelerate... Unsprung weight makes 4x as much difference as weight in the car. So 5kg saved per wheel and...
Depends how much of a drop you want....
Eibach sportlines are the best springs IMO, about £150.
Coilovers will always give you a better stance, just because they're adjustable. V-maxx or k-tec are perfectly fine if it's just for road use. They're ~ £400 I think. You can get cheaper coilovers...
Depends what you mean by best?? Cheapest / best looking / easiest to fit / best handling?
Lighter wheels is better in every respect, the ultraleggera's are the lightest off-the-shelf non magnesium wheel.
Might be worth seeing if you can drive another cup with standard brakes to see if it's something wrong with yours? I have no problem with my brakes at all, nicely balanced.
Where you've got it is fine. Have you taken the paint off so it's a metal to metal contact? You would normally get fuses blowing because of an earth though.
Cheers braveheart, that's exactly what I needed.
To be honest, outright performance isn't really that important on track days, as long as it handles well enough to be fun.
I'll definitely be getting a rear ARB, hadn't really thought about top mounts too much. Are they worth the money?
How good are the Bilstein's out of the box? I'd quite like to have the adjustability, but, if the Bilsteins have a good set up as standard, then I'd rather save my £500.
Not quite half the price, £703 from KamRacing. KW's are £1200 or so.
One of the traders has a turbo car with 400hp iirc?
The 'charged engine I'm buying from DannyR was running 326hp, I'd imagine this is pretty well up there.