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I used to own one:- Cup is quicker and handles better. The only plus point on the MGF is that you can drive it harder in the wet.

Shame the rev limiter isnt at 7500 instead

Oh great Reno Guru maybe you can help me. My Dealership will not supply and fit a RSport ECU as they say it doesnt exist on their parts database and is it is not on there then it will invalidate my warrenty anyway. Why are they telling me this ? and what can I do to correct it ?

Twit:- I have never got 34 -35 even when driving normal (still quite hard then). The best I get is about 33-34 but usually around 28 - 30 on average. RSport have said the MPG is better with the new ECU. I am still thinking about it but still have the same concerns over a long period of...

good call Tim0172, Im tempted myself but want to hear a few more reports first. My main concern is 8000rpm on an unbalanced flywheel and the long term damage that may occour from this. I hope someone can clarify how much vibration they get.

Put a sock in it !

Phoned up reno today, they said "wot ecu ? we will only fit a standard one" Wots all that about ? They said if they dont know about it it is not covered by the warranty and no new part exists so they want nothing to do with it.

0-60 / 6.5secs 0-100 16.7 secs

respray the bonnet and blend in to the wings (at there cost)

172 std + 3 Bhp -Air Filter + 8.6 Bhp-ECU and 5% more torque + 7 Bhp- K-tek zorst Total 190.6Bhp All three should work well together and I would expect 188Bhp + as a min

I Spoke to R sport today (they called me to say the ECU is available now) I asked them about K&N Air Fiter replacement and K-Tek zorst they said it could cope with mapping those changes but not an induction kit. Still, these 3 mods would probably give about 190Bhp, thats got to be almost down...

Gone so soon on a Cup? My cup used to do this alot before I lowered the Tyre pressures in the front. Now, after I have got it rolling, I can floor it and get pretty good traction. Before this the wheels used to bounce and make a very loud banging.

When not fully warmed up:- Gear Change light 6500 / Cut out 6750 When Hot:- Gear Change light 7000 / Cut out 7250 P.S. 8000Rpm would put 4 round dents in your Bonnet !!!!!

I now have 4k miles on the clock (no 4k rattle yet) but my tickover is sometime quite lumpy, you can feel it in the car as it coughs. Is this normal for the 172 engine ? ro should I get it checked ? Perfomance seems ok.

How sad

Youve gotta try. Seedy:- any joy with the grill work i mentioned on the other thread ?

The stainless mesh can be bought at most Les Smiths / Halfords, if not you can get it form most Mod Cos look in Fast Car / Max power etc. It is fitted by Cutting it to size and fixing it from behind the bumper. Have you looked at K-Tek site yet for the picture of the Stainless Front grill...

try taking the back seats and the spare wheel out and have 1/4 tank of fuel, turn off all electrics not needed, warm it up for 20 mins and go for a thrash on a cold, crisp morning. This should make you feel a difference. P.S you could also try an octane booster. Better still buy a...

Shouldnt it be Phucking Feasants !!!! ? Soor to hear about you misfortune, how about taking this opportunity to fit wire mesh in youself in the bottom section and Buy the Polished Stainless steel Grill from K-Tek it will look well mean and cost you less.

Get them repaired at chipbusters and keep away from the kerbs. The rims on the Cup protude past the tyre so it is very easy to scuff them.

I used the Reno Elf Semi Synthetic. Shame they overfilled it though !!

My concern is that the grp n filter has 1 not 3 layers to filter and is only worth using for track days. If you use it all the time you will probably shag your engine out double quick !!!

I changed my oil this weekend at 3500 miles. No way I was leaving in the first oil for 12000 miles.

I still have 10 litres left when it starts in the red.

definately from the front/engine bay for me

I get a slight clunk from the right hand side (Cam belt side) when I come off the gas driving around town sometimes. Has anyone else had this and what is it. I have cheched the top engine mount as I thought it could be that (Centre bolt was finger tight only, so I gave it a tweak, still no...

I have a strong steering lock bar that I use when parking in public places, just for a little more peace of mind.

I run at 36 front and 32 rear, 3.4k miles now and still handles like it is on rails. I think the manual quotes 38 or 39 in the front for motorway driving and and extra 3psi for towing. You all seem to be a bit low in the fronts. It is a bit hairy in the wet, but I see that as a good thing...

If you speak to the planning / highways department at your local council you should be able to find out the maximum height allowed for speed humps. If it exceeds this you should have a case. So make sure you get them to check it and chase them until you get an answer. I once knew of someone...

My insurers said £25 p/a for the Induction kit / Filter and £35 p/a for the Exhaust. Wierd, as the induction kit and filter give more power. I think it is the cosmetic thought, a new shiney exhaust means its more desirable to thiefs !!