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Ah right .
Are they an even bigger pain in the are to get out than the OEM rubber dogbone parts? Those buggers took plenty of sweat to get out
Yeh its road only, can't ever see me going on a track with it to be fair.
Hi guys.
I've got some pretty bad torque steer. Car tracks perfectly straight off power and on motorways but as soon as I accelerate it wants to pull right.
I'm guessing worn wishbone bushes are the culprit.
Would I be better off polybushing the wishbones on it now and buying a new ball...
Knackered dogbone causing the manifold to hit subframe?
I had this when i changed my clutch so I loosened off all the mounts and gave the engine a bit of a shake to centralise it all then nipped back up and the knock was gone.
Yep I used them to correct the rear camber and toe on the rear of mine due to a bent stub or rear beam. Half an hour job and the shims are stackable so you can change camber and toe.
Great service from PMS over the phone while we're on the subject!
Im not expert on cambelts on these but you need 150 Quid's worth of timing tools as its not as simple as sticking a drill bit in the holes like on other types of engine.
If you don't have the tools then consider a specialist as labour will be about as much as the tools required..
CV joint could be buggered. Or possibly the wheel bearing.
Take the shaft out and investigate. Not too difficult but you will need to drain the gearbox oil
What car is it? I always thought pretty much all 182s and cup 172s had the rs lower inlets.
If you don't have them then gains may be a bit more noticable
I'm not expert but I'm sure a good wheel refurb company will have come across plastic centre caps before and have a way of making them match the wheels they have just coated.
Best off asking the company who are doing it for you
Mine weren't powder coated but looked as good as new after the refurb
Yeo. My guess would be one of the 2 bolts holding the dogbone Mount on.
Under the car you will see a dogbone sort of thing which twists in the middle. 1 bolt should be aiming straight up and at the other end its held on with a long bolt and a nut
I know its a pikey method but I actually found routing the belt easier using a jubilee clip on tensioner so I could use both hands to sort the belt out
Honestly swap the tyres front to rear before you start worrying anything is wrong.
I was scratching my head for weeks trying to work it out and I couldn't believe it was an odd ttrw causing it.
Also get the tracking done on a hunter system with a printout, fantastic bit of kit in the right...
All the engines are f4rs mate. What they are saying is regardless of what engine you have weather its from a 182 or a 172 the differences in the driveshafts comes from different suspension setups between the cup and regular.
Not sure how much OE ones are but probably the best option for standard.
I don't seem to have noticed any increased vibration from my blue powerflex though.
There's tonnes on eBay for about 15 quid but don't have the top pipe for the breather.
You could get around this by using a breather filter on the end of the pipe, or find some sort of 90° takeoff to drill into the silicone and attach the hose.
But yeah I agree 80 for the forge or samco is a...