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Take the calliper off wind it all the way in and out (break pedal) a few times. Cleaning up the piston behind the boot if required and then refit and bleed
I had this before and the above sorted it out.
A long piece of 0awg cable, a short piece for the earth and some ring terminals is all you'd need and something to hold the battery down in the boot. Although I'd personally want to use a sealed audio battery if its in the cabin as the gasses coming off aren't great.
What have you done to break...
May be completely different on the Clio but I did this on a td5 landy and to prime all I had to do was ignition on and off a about 6 times to make the pump prime and then it started first time.
Injector puller wasn't needed, I just put an Allen key under them and levered them out gently...
As long as the belt is routed correctly you can't really get it wrong as the tensioner is auto sprung.
Only issue I had was getting the bolt out of the tensioner as it hit the side of the chassis on its way out, I think I had to lower the gearbox mount to angle the engine up a tad but don't...
Changing the alternator and aux kit is not a specialist job. No special tools are required. Any competent mechanic should be able to do it so I wouldnt drive a million miles to try and find one.
Rears aren't adjustable anyway without the use of shims so 4 wheel won't be needed.
I'd personally get the tracking done by a hunter machine. Fantastic bit of kit and you get a printout to show all your angles.
Just take the wheel off and have a look. Probably a stone in the tyre or maybe something catching the disk.
Jack it up and spin the wheel, see if you can hear anything
Most motor factors sell refurbed units even if it is a good brand like a valeo, and the reliability is questionable.
On my astra I've been through 2 refurbed delco Remy units which were supposed to be a good brand.
Hi guys, I picked up a Monaco a few months back which is in fantastic condition other than some dents on the roof. It is on driver and passenger, as pictured. No idea what the previous owners did to get this. There is no scratches and no signs of accident damage so I can only assume they tried...
Have you got an oscilloscope? If so then attach probes to the end of the abs sensor wire and spin the wheel.
That's how I diagnosed my old 182 abs problem. The faulty sensor will either show a weak sine wave or a deformed one
Renault only I believe if your set on cup springs.
Or you could get some eibach prolines which will look about the same as cup springs but will save you a few hundred quid in the process and probably handle better.
Last time I checked cup springs were about 85 quid per corner
I had this once on my old phase 1 with a Clifford fitted.
All I had to do was lock and unlock the car with the Renault blipper and it reset the immobiliser.
It seemed that because I'd been using the Clifford fob for so long the immobiliser kicked in.
May not be your issue but worth a shot.
Its easy once you get your head round it. A puller could also knacker the mechanism as the pad will get stuck on the worn lip in the drum and want to rip the lot off
I've got a set coming off my 172 today when I get around to fitting my sportlines if they are any good to you?
I was gong to stick em on eBay to see what their worth