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Dont bother with waterless coolant. Just use genuine type D. The JR flexi boots are good just need one of the ribs cutting off first so they dont rub on each other and fail prematurely. I've been running them for 2/3 years now and it's been spot on. For your airbag I'd be pulling out the horn...

If anything went into the splines it was a tiny bit of moly. And I mean tiny, I genuinely cant remember now though! I'll try the test, never have any issue going into reverse usually.

You just disconnect the linkage and the top engine mount? No adjustability really on the dogbone/gearbox side

In a bid to make the gearshift feel less w**k and to improve the rattle I removed the linkage and fitted a boot over the bearing. Tried doing this the first time but the boot ripped so bagged a new one then filled it with red rubber grease. Also readjusted the shifter to try improve the...

Been at it all evening and not really got anywhere? Started off trying to look into the box and see if I could watch the input shaft but doing it alone I had no chance. Hardly any room in there even with an endoscope cam. Nothing really looks untoward and it's not caked in clutch dust which...

Kyle asked me to lube up.

😂 I definitely wont have put it on without your full support.

It was a while back now so I've no idea! We definitely put grease somewhere but didnt slather it because of it catching all the clutch dust.

Just checked my post on my thread and we did put a tiny bit of grease onto the shaft. Reckon this is the issue? Reallllyyyyy dont want to pull the box out again 😭😭

@Romanian Tyre Fitter, did we?

Didn't see this. No, I didn't mark up the original but this never felt great either and with it being a completely different setup I just started from the beginning. To update this, I replaced the clutch cable to see whether this would improve things. Old one was definitely well worn out with...

Ginger*

Yeah, doesnt stop the others deploying anyway iirc not that you'll have many left

Get the airbags coded out using clip or rstuner. Dont bother with resistors imho. Pretty simple job, just 4 nuts per seat

Classic area rep

I'm gonna put some milwaukee stickers on this makita radio I got from you so everyone thinks I'm cool

That time again when the cars due a service, first one since the refreshed gearbox went in so treated it to the same MTL as before. Moved onto the new Castrol oils after using the ELF for the last 4 years. Engine will probably blow up next week now 😂 Relatively painless job apart from the oil...

Yeah your guide was really useful thanks for posting it! For people in the future if you dont fancy using a lighter just open up the clip along its joint then force it forwards. Make sure the string is also strong enough as it's a lot of faffing to get the cable in the right position.

Morning Paul

I saw that but didnt want to take a naked flame under there at all. Literally prizes off easily once you know you wont break it.

Sorted now. For anyone in the future the little rubber guard prizes off. You can then access the clip underneath which you use long nose pliers on and a screwdriver to push out.

Thread bump but struggling with removing the clip from where the pedals are. Do I need to snap off the plastic locking part? Dont see how it easily comes off otherwise

Putting a fresh battery in her to keep her going?

Doesn't look it's tracking fast enough to me.

Nearly as old as me them.

Realised Dan actually swapped the original trophy body out for a 1.2's

It was second hand but in VGC. I checked and cleaned all bearings aswell as replacing the bearing sat in the shifter tower itself. Is there a depth recommended for the sleeve joint? Was unsure how far to go when first setting up.

Useless

What's everyone's go to load out? Be good to see your setups.

We only use mitutoyo at work and they're great. One had the little wheel snap off as a clumsy engineer dropped it 👀