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i've got only the cylinders firing, had a search so i'm thinking the best place to start would be new plugs then leads then coil pack? oh and the engine management light is flashing does this indicate anything else? Dom

I'm not sure really, they've done 52k pressure is ok tracking done but don't know where to get geo done in Hereford. Newish front tyres to but they are kumho ku17 I think which i'm not to happy with- they look crap for a start!

Basically my 182ff feels crap turning into bends. I've fitted new so rear shocks which I thought felt better but now I think it was psychological, so what can I try next? It doesn't feel as nice as my old 172

Eh what's string tracking? Could do with a rough guide to checking tracking

Well that has to be the easiest job you can do on a 1*2, certainly feels a whole lot better even though the old shocks didn't feel much different to the new by hand.

Why do tears fail more than fronts when they carry less load?

I'm going to do it then, it's not worth having a 182 that if I can't enjoy it. Let you know how I get on, where's the cheapest place to get cup rear shocks?

Hmm I wonder, it's not exactly an expensive fix but if it does nothing it would be annoying. What's the expected life on them anyway? My history doesn't show a change which would make them 10yrs old @50k so probably due new ones

That's what wondered but they aren't leaking and if I open the boot and bounce them they seem ok, be great if it is as that's simple

My 182 is on 50k and has felt a bit horrible turning in to corners and in general like I fight to keep the front end going where I want it to. This is at relaxed driving speeds. The steering feels loose and i've asked on here before but i'm now fed up as it doesn't feel controllable or tight. I...

I was chatting to a manager of a Tyre fitters and he told me toyo had come close to going under

when you say geometry you're meaning more than just tracking yeah? Tracked a few Weeks ago with new from tyres-kumho kh17 which stopped the full lock clunk. Are rack bushes easy to do with just a jack and stands? What's most likely on a relatively low mileage 182, I'd love it to be just shocks...

this has been a bit of a niggle for a while but as the weather should get a bit better soon I want to tackle it, basically cornering doesn't seem as responsive as it should and it doesn't turn in nicely like there is a vagueness initially. Also I get a bobbly feel at times like i'm on those...

From what I've been told jack up front end on axle stands and check for in/out movement. There should be little to no movement on the shaft

Nice science!

Ah well that's fine then, just might push it back in a bit more then. Here's the question though-how much longer are your exhausts when they get a stiffy?

I've been having a running battle with my exhaust for a while now with it protruding over 25-30mm from having been near to flush. Is only after a run, is it the heat expansion? it looks a but nasty though. Our could I have an engine mount failing? Which would be at fault? Any ideas...

Well this is really annoying me now, been out tonight to get the front up on a jack and there seems to be no movement from the drivers side now and practically nothing from the pass. Spinning the wheel to a different position seems to alter whether there is no movement or minimal movement. I'm...

Yeah I've read bad things about non genuine driveshafts. So can I just pop down to my local to get hub nuts torqued up?

Yep, that's exact description I would give for mine. Hopefully you don't have both gone like me. Look in the suspension etc. section there is a thread currently in there started by me that may help.

I've been told there should be no play at all, I can hear it tapping inside the hub. Don't want to be spending over £200 for no reason

Anyone?

Need to change both of mine, done a search but can't find a guide. I know it's pretty straight forward but am I right to assume the 280nm torque is only for the hub nuts so I could get them torqued up at my local garage once i'm done

Is it normal for both sides to go because both of mine have a few mill of play. Also might changing the shafts eliminate my grumble through my clutch pedal when pulling off?

Now I think I have two knackered driveshafts where is the cheapest place to get Renault or recon shafts? Rough prices? Cheers Dom

Oh s**t then in that case I might have both gone! Probably got 3mm of slack

Just had a look and there is a small amount of play, I could hear a tapping in the hub. When I jacked it up I expected to feel more play but it felt like less. So there should be zero in out movement?

Thanks

So to clarify when I check my driveshafts jack up or leave? And the movement, will it be lateral in and out, or up and down?

This is sounding more and more like my problem, so also when pulling off in 1st I get a knock that my also be ds related?