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Still reckon you ought to pull the lump out - go on have a go! All the tools at the 'shop are just waiting for you to get stuck in ;-)
I'll write you some instructions ;)
Cheers
M
(Cough) Who's going to take the engine out ................. ;)
Good looking and well prepped car this one chaps. Just needs some decent suspension on it with a good setup and it'll be a giant killer!
Cheers
M
Different to the two I've done recently which were just rubber doughnut bushes..... they were both on aftermarket replacement shocks though, not originals.
Ring Gaz and order some up ;-)
Cheers
M
Clio Cup meaning Renault Sport Clio in general vs normal none RS Clio.
To be honest I'm confused now! Am sure the threaded section on those dampers is 10mm with a 13mm nut securing the rubber top mount washers.
Does the insert physicaly not fit over the threaded section?
Cheers
M
Go to Kwik-Fit, ask to root through old exhaust pile. Find something with the same flange. Take home, chop, chop, weld, back on car. Total cost 10P of mig wire.
Cheers
M
Doesn't matter how well the car is serviced, it isn't going the change the properties of a fabric reinforced rubber belt, namely how quickly it degrades due to ambient conditions and number of heat cylcles.
Get it changed - with the full cam belt kit (i.e. both rollers and tensioners) by...
Yep kit will include air filter, loom extension kit, manifold, fasteners etc. etc. basicaly everything required to bolt it on. Battery can remain in standard position or be moved to the boot/replaced with a smaller race battery - entirely your choice.
Kits will be supplied direct or they can...
Yep rang my Renault man who provided me with top and bottom rubbers with insert and lower bolts........ unless he either A) had some or B) Pinched them from a box with the dampers in.......
Cheers
M
Post the pic of your current ones as well as they are nothing like mine!
The ones that came off were 19mm, the bilsteins that went on were 19mm - hence I'm confused.
Fred get on here and dip into your spares bucket to sort the lad out :-)
Cheers
M
Filtration is by ITG - either open element ITG cone filter located behind the headlight or an enclosed ITG Aluminium airbox at additional cost.
Due to its location though the open element filter should be fine in terms of flow and temperature and should provide some good audiable acompanyment...
DBW will be batch production, Cable can be batch production if requried. Cable throttle people don't panic - you can have one too we aren't going to leave you out ;-)
The first batch will be DBW but that is as per the plan and as per demand (currently 33 DBW owners registered interest and 6...
A remap is neccesary due to greater inducted airmass when compared to the standard inlet manifold. It will drive on the standard one but only in a needs must situation and then at low engine speed and low load.
Running it in anger on a standard cal would be really test the ECU's adaption ;-)...
It used to be very, very common - however these days the labour and kit involved make it less cost effective than it used to be. £50 a tyre is about right for a proper repair so 30 quid saving on a new one............. hardly worth it IMHO!
However if you can find an old boy type place that...
Exactly Tooney. Replacing the standard inlet system for one offering increased flow and velocity is one of the most cost effective ways to extract more power from an F4R in my experience.
Cheers
M
Anyone claiming 15bhp from a remap on a 172/182 is spouting rubbish.
There are however some very good aftermarket calibrations available for the 172/182 but they won't be claiming 15bhp!
Cheers
M
Danny, I'm not out for an argument here but the standard manifold is a massive restriction. You sell the proof! Why do you think ITB's give a 25bhp gain on a completely standard engine?
Trying to work around the standard manifold beyond 190bhp is simply counter production unless, as I've...
On a standard/matched 73* inlet manifold? Well you're doing better than myself, Sodemo or Oreca can manage then with standard manifold on a relatively standard engine.
Sure you can scrape past 200bhp but the effort and money involved in doing it makes it pointless unless you need to maintain...
Inlet manifold in general. It's a very poor design (from a peak power point of view) and extremely packaging compromised.
IME CAT428's, well done matched inlets (your AWT ones are as good as they will get) with a good ECU calibration optimised for the above will give around 190bhp. You aren't...
CAT428's are an excellent choice.
However you won't get over 200bhp on the standard inlet manifold. Circa 85bhp/litre is about as much as you can realisticaly do.
Cheers
M
Cable version won't be a significant amount more than the DBW version. All it needs is a throttle bypass and a remote ICV mount fabricating which aren't expensive.
Cheers
M