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You're absolutely right to do it. I had a close look at one (which may well be the car you have now) and after a bit of soul searching discounted it purely because of the effort required to put a proper spares package together for it. We carry between 15 and 20 grands worth of X85 bits depending...
No point in it what so ever unless you need a quick fix to reduce radiated heat..... on a Clio you don't as there has already been 'nuff engineering gone on to control radiated heat from components.
Cheers
M
Clio Cups are 1060KG with full lights, indicators, mega heavy brackets, roll cage, fire extinguishers, glass windows, fully skinned doors etc. etc.
If you're comitted you can get a 197 below 1000KG but it will involve a lot of work and it won't be very nice as a road car afterwards LOL
Cheers
M
It looked to be going well when I saw it today mate. Was very impressed with some of the corner entry speeds you were managing!
I was with Motorbase for most of the day but had a walk around to see who else was out and about ;-)
What data acq are you running on the car?
Cheers
M
No probs mate I'll work out what bits you need. Think it will just be alt bracket, idler pulley and belt but will need to see if the road car alt and cup race car alt is the same........ I don't think it is.
Cheers
M
Kev I can sort you out with the complete Cup race car spec kit which has a proper idler pulley and designed belt run.
Everything bar the heater box is pretty easily removeable too.
Cheers
M
Red Dots rolling road is the most over reading POS rollers you'll find IMHO. I've had a car on there - 231 on the engine dyno, 260 on their rollers. My arse!
Cheers
M
Oh and it might be of interest but a favourite SuperChips trick back in the day was to r****d ignition below OEM values for the early part of the rev range then bring the spark back in very rapidly as the engine approached peak torque. This gives a real feeling of 'coming on cam' as the engine...
You're right, but a base map is just that. I do the same thing on BTCC cars as I have a cal that I know is about right for a 4 Cyl engine with S2000 type induction and some trick cams. Getting from that to the finished calibration is the complicated part ;-)
Cheers
M
Paul tweeks to suit the engine and owner. If you prefer to run the car on 97 octane+ fuel then Paul can increase the amount of spark advance accordingly. You just can't do this with a generic calibration as you need to take into account multiple factors including average engine health and...
You're completely right. It does indeed.
I especialy liked their Rover T-Series work which involved a 10pence Diode and an 8 quid bleed valve packaged together at a Retail of 400 quid. Oh and who could forget their mighty Megane 225 calibration which found 9bhp and their simply awesome work...
The engine was built to a standard tolerance (which by definition means an allowed difference) several tens of thousands of miles ago. The chances of it being the same now are minimal at best!
Cheers
M
We looked at one of these before buying the X85 but they were just too compromised towards short distance races to be easily turned into endurance cars and quick and easy parts supply was a definate nono as a lot of it (as you know) is completely custom.
Good luck with it though, would be very...
Chaps - if the 197 setup looks like a go-er then we'll need a standard car and a car with a set of cams just like we have done with the 73X engine package. As such we'll call you ;-)
73X is the priority at the moment though and once completed we'll look at 197 setups. One project at a time...
Mini-Valvers setup was by Ben at AWT - essentialy it's the forerunner to the F4R setup Ben and I are working on now.
Mini's engine with that inlet and some very mild cams was generating circa 100bhp/litre specific output. Which gives you some idea of the area we're aiming for with the F4R...
If you let me know if the 421 is the inlet or the exhaust cam (exhaust has the stud in it) I'll plumb it into my 4R model and see if it might run ;-)
What do the lobes look like as in the photo one of them seems a bit iffy!
Cheers
M
Same as X-85 Clio Cup. They're aren't the best solution by a long, long way. The location of the airbox inlet directly behind the headlight creates a 'bit' of a restriction.
If you hack the front off the box it works quite a bit better! The loss in filter shielding is more than made up for by...
DBW has always had an advantage - it's just that most don't understand it. DBW allows much tighter control of transient throttle conditions, much more controlled torque reduction for Traction control etc. etc.
The fact you can't snap one open like you can a cable body is not a disadvantage...
Nope, air filter off and in from the side or two bolts and let the undertray drop enough to get in there.
If you do want to remove it for any reason it is fully o-ring sealed hence no gaskets to replace or similar. Just bolt on/bolt off as required. O-Ring sealing for induction systems is used...
Yep they're a great bit of kit and make bleeding most hydraulic systems easy peasy.
Just make sure you have circa 12PSI in the feed/tyre to avoid messy exploding EZbleed bottles ;-)
Cheers
M
No its like changing both the upper and lower plenum. It completely replaces the entire standard inlet system from the cylinder head to the air filter.
For all intense and purpose it is bolt on and fitting time will be circa 3 hours.
Cheers
M