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Hubs are different.

Just the 182 doens't have a wheel well. All cats reduce power by creatin back pressure so a decat does help. On a 172 the cat is quite restrictive wheras a 182 cat is much better (200 cell vs 400 cell on the 172) but both with gain from a decat. A remap is a good idea but with just a...

As you said few people ever get to the limiter anyway s whats everyone on about. Yep milage on them and they will hopefully get quicker I don't think ther emany with any decinet mialge on them yet.

yep it could well be some aftermarket companies may have set the shock up so they have more camber built into them or it maybe the bolt holes have elongated a bit and the hole is stretched. Although the standard may allow for that much difference I'd fix it I woulnd't be happy with 1 degree...

Early 172's have them externally in line with the fuel tank. Later ones and 182's have one which are built into the fuel tank with the sender units and pump.s There good for 150k though. Easy way to clean them out is to blow compressed air down them backwards to the normal way of flow...

Its a little fan to circulate air accross the temperatue sensor in there which the Climate control needs to fix the temperature. Quite common for them to buzz you can just replace them and it goes.

The ' are minutes. 60 minutes in one degree. Yep bottom out more than the top means negative camber.

Do you mean the top sits out more or the bottom sits out more?

Best place is to go to a copy cat exhaust makers, have a look in the Yellow pages etc you can get the rear systems for £90 I think. Its a common failing though at 3 years or so old. I'd personally stick with a stock/copy cat system as i don't like noise but the Ktec stelth system is quite...

I had the spex RSX on my car for a bit the rear dampers kept failing although Spax were helpful and replaced them i wouldn't buy another set as they were quite hard. For road use on a budget I'd go with the second choice as it is a great setup for track use its to soft though. H and R are...

Silkline Pro 5-40 is a popular choice.

I've given up touching the metal on my car door when I close it now its that bad. I must look a right plonker when I get an electric shock closing the door and jump back.

Someone uncle off here posted this for sale a week or so ago. I think they were asking £3 or £4k. You need some new pictures as in that state I'd say its not worth more than £2.5k without the other bits maybe £3k with all the bits.

Copied from here http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=108607 Seat belt warning light The SERV and AIRBAG lights come on its a common problem (almost every has it) its due to the wiring of the pretensioners going to an open circuit. Fiddle with the wires under the seat an the...

Yes but its a bit of effort. You need a PAS pump. All the pipework and rack then you need to get a AUX belt and get the AUX belt and pump to fit to the stuff you already have. Much easier to buy a car with PAS.

Two way one is to get a plump line and dangle it from the wheel then measure the distance from the line to the wheel at thye top and bottom if the car has negative camber then the top distance is bigger than the bottom. Or similarly get a spitirt level and put it against your wheel and see...

Thats it. Its down to cost the cost whilst you don't think its mucy is huge to swop wipers over.

A few things could cause this but this could be one yes. Check the camber angles and you should be able to tell if there in specification or not. Has the car hit a few curburbs/had a crash you might have bent the wishbone/subframe if so.

Did you put it all back together correctly. If the camber was realy out you'd know and the shafts knock I had mine setup with somehting like 4 degrees (mk2 but same thing) and the shafts used to knock all the time. See what the camber realy is then you'll now which side is wrong.

Check the earthing leads.