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This one wasn't the one which was charshed very soon after it was finished was it?
Is it the phase one it proper wire throttle body or a phase two ie DBW conversion?
60k in 3.5year there no point trying to keep the miles down it doesn't cost much my car would only be worth £1k more with 20k or so on it which when you put in the prespective or what I've lost is nothing.
Ola and new shape ones are the same (well they look it) there the same as the Scenai and a few other models although part numbers are different from memory.
£35 for new Renault ones or £9 or so from motorfactories etc.
Intaje air temperature sensor.
USed by the ecu to wor out how dence fuel is and spark timing.
Not a good idea to use these stupid resister no more power and it will wreck your engine.
Its on the manifold though from memory or near the throttle body.
If you need better brakes then 2500's are great but only if you need them stock are fine for 99% of people.
I don't think BBTT are likly to be inferier there not much they can do wrong assuming there not fancy drilled ones which can cracke and ther groves fill up. Thats a more obvious problem...
You need the clean out the caliper bracket bit the bad deposites material all around it.
Also you may need the file off a bit of material from the pads as some pad types don't sit right.
Part of the 1.9 box were used in building the stronger Mk1 box (the Willaims one) a 1.9 is a stright fitment I think but the ratios are very long. You'll never hit the limiter in top.
I thik the rsi box is the same model type so it will fit though.
The 1.9 box holds back a fair bit of torque...
Buying a 172 is very cheap now however its not the same as a hybrid you pay your money.
For a trnaplant including brakes suspension etc its £1.5k+vat then say £700~1k fitment if you find someoen who wants to do it ot do it yourself (not difficult just need the right tools and patiance) for free.
Got to halfords and buy one of there one person brake bleeding kits then assemble as it says and you attache it to the brakes reservior and open the caiper bleed nipples and let the fluid air out for a bit till you get a constant stream of fluid from the caliper then close the nipple up and do...
Yozzas car has about 92km on it now.
He's had a few bits chnaged and its basically now a racing car. new engine at 80k after a bolt failed but it had had a very very hard life on track.
I'd chanage dampers front and rear as the etups much better with matching dampers and springs.
If you just want spring eisbeck are a great manurfacturer not sure if they did one for your car though.
I use 195/50/15 as there cheap there no change that I can realy tell from 185/55/15's.
Setup well I'd run a bit of toe in and a relitivly huge amount of negative front camber (maybe -2 degrees) and have the front down to say 300mm arch to center of wheel (about 40~50mm drop front so the front...
Its not the VVT. The VVT has nothing to do with the power kicks thats all down to the cams coming on and the fuleing maps chnaging from closed to open loops.
Its not even a variable cam realy it just advances a few degress on the intake cam.
Get new disk as well there no point just getting new bearing pressed in IMO.
Yozzasport are the best value I know off but there still not cheap
a new bearing is £30 then £15 or so fitment a new disk with bearing is £60 or so so might as well change the lot.