Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Well seeing as the rear tyres are suddenly rubbing on the arches on tight turns, the rear wheels sit at different widths in the arches depending on which way you last turned, I can feel the rear moving about when the car changes direction, plus the fact that the rear beam bushes are utterly...
I remember Sam with the light grey 172 getting warned a few times about his car, he told me he passed the db test on his exhaust but it was his throttle bodies that made all the noise and the marshals kept waving flags at him, tbh I can't remember if he was talking about a db test at Blyton or...
Hooned it into work this morning and one of the lads in my section said he could hear my car coming down the duel carriageway while he was stood in reception and he said it was loud in there, that's easily an eight of a mile away, so i'm now a bit worried about failing the noise test, what was...
Luckily I have @HMS Derv Destroyer the mad professor with a fully kitted out garage at his disposal to do the job, I owe that man so much beer it's ridiculous.
Everything on the car is polybushed with purple Powerflex, I guess it would make sense to keep them all the same, f*ck standard bushes they're for losers.
ECP is 10 minutes away from my house, for the sake of a few quid i'd rather click and collect it's just easier.
I just wondered if people avoided the black series because they're too hard?
Need to replace these as they're buggered, might as well polybush them seeing as the old ones are getting binned, question is do I buy the normal purple ones, or the black series for £7 quid extra, is there a difference, are the black series hard as nails and intolerable, does it matter at all...
The sensor on top of the bottle is all sh*tted up with gunk, I think it's more than likely the fluids that old it's full of crap and needs flushing, tbh I might just Turkey Baste it out and stick some fresh in, i've no idea what grade of fluid's in there, will mixing Dot4 and Dot5.1 make any...
When I did mine years ago the map number had to match the cars vin number, otherwise you'd ruin your ecu, not sure if it's the same these days, what's the code number of your map?
That sounds like a plan, it's been in there a few years and it was on my to do list before CSF track day, I just don't get how it was fine when the pads were near enough grinding and the piston was fully out, but now the pads are new and the piston is wound in it's gone haywire.
Fluid is full as far as I can tell, although the gap between max and min is very small, looks to be about a 20mm difference.
Also why wouldn't it come on when pointing up or downhill but only on throttle, surely if it was low fluid it should do it on all inclines, not just on throttle?
When accelerating the handbrake light is permanently on, it goes away off throttle or braking, when maintaining a constant speed with the throttle it flickers, i've checked the brake fluid reservoir and it's full, usually when you fluid is low the STOP and brake light comes on when cornering...
It's all changed since I bought mine, but I think you now have to buy the unit, the map and a licence all separately to get it all to work.
https://www.fastchip.nl/shop/clio/clio-2-products
Yes I have one of the original units, but other than reading fault codes it's useless on any other car other than mine as it's locked to my ecu, they all end up locked to one car unless you but a licence to unlock it, but it then becomes locked to that car and become useless to the original...
Hell yes it transformed the car, much more balls lower down, smoother idle, higher rev limit, better drivability, I put it back to the standard map once because i'd got so used to the 98ron it had become normal, f*ck me it felt broken on the oem in comparison.