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yep cambelt driven, wouldn't worry about these fuel additives, save your cash. the car was designed to run without them! some fail well under 100k miles others run fine towards and passed 200k!
the dci 80 and dci 100 share the same injectors. its the dci 65 that's different
Car looks good, lights worry me on them though, usually points to injector or high pressure pump
loads of info at www.cliodci.net
basically engines are all the same, mk3 used a different fuel system which is a bit better but the Delphi stuff on the mk2 aint too bad in my experience so far!
look out for a dci 100 if your looking to tune, 130bhp and 190lbft and they are pretty quick...
68's had the Jr5 box the same as the dci 100
later ones didn't have sunroofs (thankfully!) less to rattle and leak.
didn't know about the intercoolers!
can you hear the turbo boosting? is it giving off excess smoke when your getting up the revs?
I had one with a boost leak and it would start to pull about 1500rpm then drop off at 1800rpm and start giving off thick black smoke due to the lack of air. it was a boost pipe that had cracked around...
no point tuning it, better with the diesel for that. not a great engine the petrol.
you could have it remapped and find out what bits are different with the 128bhp engine in yours and the 133bhp engine in the twingo as they are pretty much the same but with different outputs
if its a sucking noise (sounds like the car taking a quick breath!) when you first press the accelerator then that's normal.
if it continues to keep making a sucking noise then you have an air leak somewhere
imagine how much fun it would be trying to get that clean and running again! id give it a go! they are still holding that much money that id bet you could still make a profit on that if it cost you close to free and wasn't registered as a write off
ive had FK silverline X which I believe are just stainless version of the konigsport (still have koni dampers etc) and ive had Bilstein B14, and the bilsteins are better, but the FK's were bloddy good!
I only used them on the road though so not sure about track
is it running full 172 widetrack so hubs and driveshafts etc?
as the abs shouldn't be an issue unless the driveshafts are changed as the abs rings are part of these, I wasn't even aware they were different teeth wise? and I don't think the sensors are any different so even if it had 172 hubs it...
THIS.
what is going on with this place recently. I only kept my 200 for 10 months, 15k miles but it was the best handling car ive ever owned out the box, no need to change anything. factory tyres (think it was conti 3's on it?) had bags of grip, wear rate was good and they wernt too expensive...
Really depends on history and tbh sometimes just luck of the draw! Mine is on 150k and runs like new! I had another on 155k that shat a gearbox but still ran brilliant engine wise
my 172 on a 182 manifold, ktec decat and ktec stealth exhaust with matched inlets and the standard map used to pop flames on high rpm gear changes when it was mega hot
yeah mate definitely it owes me hardly anything too!!
the springs are -60mm lower with dampers to match! ive had the springs just on their own on a dci 65 and it was horrible but with matching dampers they are stiff but handles really well
Cheers Chief!
Bit of a running joke with John at Progrip as every time I take a Renault in somthings not quite right with it, my 200 was obviously bent in every area it could be, my flamer had a bent hub, my ph1 had a bent lower arm, my twingo had a bent rear beam (2yrs old, mint with 20k on...
apparently enables VVT from cold too im sure rather than the standard map where its only activated over a certain coolant temp. which is what makes it smooth to drive from cold.
im sure I remember henk saying that on here a while back