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not done one yet, but it's very tight in the mk3 clio so i imagine it will be fun and games in the twingo. I wonder if you still have to remove the entire aux assembly to get the water pump off a twingo???

if it's knocking where i've said it likely is in my last post, then yes

the k-tec ones defintely make a positive difference. The knocking will be the top cup hitting the inside of the hole it sits in, which the renualt solution to is a bit of grinding with a dremel

That's an annoying one, I'd say your belt tensioner needs checking for correct function. How many miles has it done since the aux belt was fitted?

no clue what stans maps will be like, but inlets work

This tbh Wouldn't say it was easy in the car, but would have been about £400 cheaper

More to do with the L shaped bracket I've mentioned you should add in the past IMO. Without it you're transmitting a lot of twist thorugh the brackets

pah, even Laine has got his wallet out for a standalone, and he doesn't even own a phone with a camera on it LOL

it is just for a warning light. wont effect running at all. most important bit is having an ecu for the same fuel line setup that you have really

you have a very late ph1 then. seen a few like that, but the majority are 2 fuel lines. could convert the mk1 to single fuel line (beanie has done it) if you can be bothered. standalone FTW

you need a ph1 rail that uses 2 lines and a regulator in the rail

will either be incorrect tyre pressure, or just normal wear on the inner edge (being slightly more than the outer) If he's told you about it then i'd be less worried really, unless the wear is singificantly uneven i wouldn't panic

Wheel rubbing on inner arch

highly doubt that losses. that's massive. 270 at the fly would be 235-240 at the wheels

it's a year overdue and will cost you in the region of £2000 if it snaps. Belts are only rubber, which breaks down with time and heat. You'd be silly not to so it

bloody fantastic put in other stuff. supercharged in an exige it's verging on p**n

bingo ;)

at 5 years it's due cambelt and aux belt. You should also change the coolant at 5 years, and I would recommend a brake fluid change too. Also worth changing the sparkplugs at 36k IMO, despite a far longer "official" change interval.

I was p0wning CTRs in a 205gti 8 years ago. Heavy old beasts really. Mind you my RSi pretty much walks on 1*2s. Throttle bodies are for winners

turn the phone sideways.....

If you know how to use momentum and not need pure power then there's no reason why not. Doing big power circuits with long straight would be a little pointeless though

that's almost certainly wheelbearing, but check the hub nut isn't loose

shouldn't fail, I've taken many cars with them fitted for MOTs. Locks are definitely sensible or you leave yourself very succeptable to tampering

which balljoints did you use? the majority of places will sell you the wrong ones with 10mm mounting holes. Also worth looking for wheelbearing play/wear and damage to the shock itself

V-maxx are my budget coilover of choice

they fit as long as they're for a twin lambda ph1, which is most likely

2004ish vw caddy van. 1.4 petrol IIRC. go to a radiator specialist and look at a catalog

new cable job really. I stuck a chocky block on mine when it broke as an emergency measure........that was about 7 months ago

it's a set of bushes that replace the bushes in the standard dogbone mount. The original bushes need pressing out

he's asked for wishbones too. I was pointing out that they might not be necessary.