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I can't stand paddle clutches, and I've time and again proven that for road use a stronger cover plate is the way to go. Only real need for a paddle is under hard use for serious motorsport, and even then it should be with the knowledge that your flywheel and pressure plate will get eaten...
Mine passed an MOT with a decat this week. Extensive modifications meant it qualified for an exemption. Just had to pass the 3.5% CO limit. Takes a very good MOT tester with serious in-depth knowledge to dig out little gems like that ;)
I've done exactly this on a trophy this week, plus a downpipe gasket. I wish it was £1200, I'd take a few days off.
just had a look and including gasket and coolant change it's under £700
they dont need to be very tight when re-fitted, they're only really to align the holes in the disk with the hub to make fitting the wheels easier.
Best thing to do when removing is before even attempting to undo them, give the socket a sharp hit into the bolt head. Just kind of breaks the seal...
from the point of view of working on them, they're no better or worse put together really. Things like arch liners are better, but more awkward to work around. Some bits of the engines are easier to access, then you find something stupid somewhere else. Generally liking the non-sport mk3's quite...
KYB stuff (which that looks like) is very good indeed. Been fitting their shocks for years. Shame they dont do anything worth mentioning for clios TBH. I'd be all over it
drop the beam, then pull the system half way out ( until it gets tight for space) then turn it over and pull it out the rest of the way. I've never understood this cutting and sleeving lark, the sleeves have been blowing on ever one i've seen fitted.
it's torque handling that you need to worry about with clutches. Standard is well capable, you never really make huge peak torque gains with NA tuning, even with quite large bhp gains
diagnostic check would pick up lambda function (not fault codes) thermostat would be easiest to check in the same way to see if the engine gets up to temperature on a run
if the cat's rattling then it's broken down. De-cat or sports cat time unless you fancy a 4 figure bill from renault (and it starts with a 2 ;) ). The "hair" is defintiely sound deadening from inside a silencer
I'd be doing a battery drop test, and checking the alternator output. Worth checking the PAS pump for wear/play also as you mention the noise is on lock
cup racers are subframe mounted only if that's what you mean. I've seen an R-sport dogbone, and it just had a big bit of aluminium welded in instead of the large rubber bush,
agree with this tbh, it's compulsory manitenance, not optional. I've had to repair enough engines over the years that have had belts fail to be able to say it's not worth the grief it will cause you