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ok? that's cheap as f**k

Took me nearly 2 hours in Wests Renault to get mine ordered

unrealistic I wouldn't know that

If they show you one like this..... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RENAULT-16V-DOHC-K4J-K4M-F4P-F4R-TIMING-BELT-TOOL-/250214473516?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a41f1df2c run like the wind

it's going to be similar labour to a 172 cup. Cambelt kit should be done at the same time

every local garage i speak to has the "correct" tools..... right up until you look at what they have Perfect example is a guy on here this week tried to order locking tools, and no-one in the main dealer parts department, OR workshop had a clue about them. If they're an independent, working...

lol, admittedly a bit different to banded corsa steels with PCD altered to nissan fitment

Tyres that were fitted with fire

aerosol brake cleaner and a flame ;)

anything EBC always has and always will be utter tripe

when you say a lot of oversteer, do you really mean a lot, or just that the back feels a bit loose? Personal preference, but i like the back to be trying to break away a bit, rather than understeer

you had a really bad one, or you were driving it really badly

I R recognising that account ;)

I'd look at that too. Seen it several times

only time you need to change tyre pressure (on the road, track is different) is if you change the weight of the car

increase the tyre pressure slightly (2psi at a time)

This looks pretty decent http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2002-RENAULT-CLIO-SPORT-172-16V-SILVER-NO-RESERVE-/260612986361?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3cadbe95f9

i've done this change several times on different cars. Just gives a little more grip really. No downsides, no less sidewall so it's no harsher, and 195/50/15 are so much cheaper

show me just so i can cry at not being able to buy it :(

get rid of that silly cover for a start. does nothing but damage

the loom is about £125-£130 from renault. It's not just the cover rubbing that's the issue, they corrode quite badly too. The inlet manifold removal is the worst part of the job. I'd always give the throttle body a thorough clean whilst it's apart, and replace all the gaskets (including the...

it's not a stamp the middle 2 branches of the lower inlet have an R and an S cast in the letters are about 2 inches tall, but they're behind the fuel rail guard so not easily obvious

find the battery. look just behind it

upper loom

not matched to the gasket at the head end. If you do that it's significantly too big. At the upper to lower manifold join, you can match both sides to the gasket perfectly

it's a bit of a funny one. The fitting should really be replaced, but you can file it back into shape and make it usable

it will have been overtightened and the end of the fitting will be squashed. seen it a fair number of times, even when they've never been apart before. it WILL come apart, but you have to be a bit forceful with it. Leverage against the pipe whilst undoing will be entirely necessary

everything you've said points to the cambelt (or a pulley) slipping, whether it be by something hitting the aux belt area, or just going on it's own. I think that's what you need to get checked

if they did it wrong the first time, what are the odds that they know how to do it right?