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that's a few quid over the odds, but not much

If it were me doing the job, I'd want to do a cambelt and service at the same time to make sure everything was in good health

i've seen it quite a few times if a cat breaks down

is the aux belt still on?

scottish as f**k

could be pedal or throttle body. Could still easily be a loom fault too

When you crank it on the key, does it turn over faster than normal?

if you're running standard pads now, and dont want to change disks, use standard pads again. You wont see the benefit of new uprated pads on old disks

i've been with orange for a long time, so when it comes to upgrade time, i get a few discounts (they're pretty good with their loyalty scheme) got to negotiate tbh

yes

5 mm smaller than the hole in the strut, rubber o-rings either side of the hole which get chewed up, and held in place with lock rings that bite into the strut, then rust. they're f**king aweful Sounds like the original supplier of the k-tec ones, changed to a cheaper bearing than was...

small end goes to the gearbox oh and LOL!!!!!!!!!

18 months is the minimum. Once you're past that, you can cancel at any time. You'll go back to 18 months if you take an upgrade. Sometimes better to buy a phone outright, and not be tied to a time period if you change them regularly

light should go off automatically. Fault code will need clearing

beebplayer will give you live tv from bbc channels

junk

I R genius ;)

Re: No Compromise ph1 ITB build (Fastcar, BTM, TDF, RS Fab) - ITB update p77 we did our recent ring trip in a 200sx that cost £300 and has 156k on the clock Man the f**k up

no, they can still be improved on. Kind of a halfway between ph1 and well matched

looks like a D4F adaptor, not D7F

50p on one of the lambda sensors

I've always been nokia, right up until they tried to make smart phones and failed hard. Still have a 6300 as my work phone, it's indestructible

OR pay someone who knows how to do it right ;)

the front tool isn't really to do with timing as such. The actual position of the pulleys doesn't matter at all. By fitting the pulley locking tool (AFTER tensioning the belt) you are holding the pulleys still while torquing the pulleys up to stop the cams (and cam lock tool) from twisting

not got anything old you could use for a bit? Trusty nokia in a drawer FTW

Every nissan i've ever done is like that, normally just need to disconnect the exhaust and it tips the engine right back ;) i prefer to flush the pulley out with de-greaser in a tank, then blast off with a little brake cleaner. Brake cleaner will do the job on it's own, but give it a really...

I'd hastle them for a new desire, your x10 is only a couple of months old, you shouldn't have to be given a refurb of anything

they also come CAKED in about 3 times too much filter oil which restricts flow a lot

just in addition to slacking the pulleys, you MUST fully remove at least the de-phaser pulley and de-grease all the contact surfaces. It's essentially a friction fit, so any oil between surfaces is compromising that

I dislike spacers that you bolt the wheel to, seen too many of them come loose, I would drill out the threads and fit long studs to the hubs