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Gally's right ;) probably a bent floor, could have compromised alignment, needs jigging and lazer alignment before you even start on the aesthetics. Can't imagine yellow is a nice colour to match either

hang on brain fade......

good idea TBH. Just have to calibrate it somehow, so a cheap gauge wont work with it

they're not visible after re-assembly anyway. hardly vital

taking the engine out probably :dead:

maybe not "hard". Still easier with the bumper off though. Gives me confidence in doing the job right as i can see what i'm doing with proper access

some people just like to make life hard for themselves

multi-point

I strip it down too. More space, easier line of sight, get the whole thing done easier and quicker. I kind of struggle to see how you'd do the lower aux idler with the bumper on TBH :S

25hKndLULEk

shocks dont lower a car, springs do. But yes after any major suspension component being changed, alignment is the right thing to do

remote T-piece is fine, fitted a couple

rear one is the shorter wires. I've swapped rear sensors to the front for people though and they fit with minor manipulation

pressure sensor would definitely be best where the original was with an adaptor. Temperature is a tricky one. Ideally into the side of the sump so it sits in the oil, but obviously it needs removing to drill and weld in a boss. Sump plug adaptors work if you're not too low

never been a fan of using a plate for gauge sensors. They always leak, and I think it puts the sensors in the wrong place

I've had that kind of attitude from places before, I just tell them they're the first to quote

low pressure, or low compression? very different things ;)

that cover plate is fuuuuucked. the springs are there to absorb kick when you disengage the clutch, if they're loose they've been worked hard and done their job as long as you can expect them to. those marks look like there's been something hitting inside the bellhousing though

i did a top end on one with a belt failure at 155k (doubtful it was ever changed) and the bores in the block were still immaculate. stonking engine. painfully slow though

different kit. That's the old one using generic jenvey parts

i'd personally prefer a rebuilt head, but i'd have got it all done for not much over a grand by a very rough in my head calculation. Just personal prefernce really, I like fixing rather than just throwing repairable engines away

I'd refuse to do that without adding a cambelt kit and an aux belt kit as you know nothing about the engine.

have they not done one before?

new bearings and springs to fit to the old pivot. perfectly acceptable if the pivot is stripped, cleaned and lubed tbh. Bet is wasn't though. Charged hours should be more like 10

fork one I'm not actually sure you can even buy the balljoints alone, despite them being listed by a couple of places. Pretty sure it's full arm only

sounds like your belt was too short. only times i've seen the tensioner rub on the belt is when they've seized though

£21

you may eventually get it to go on, but you're going to struggle. I spent an hour fighting with a belt a few weeks back, then stopped and insisted on a genuine item, which went on in 3 minutes

a splitter would be your best bet. Fork type one will damage the rubber boot, but as you're changing the balljoint that's ok

aux kit from renault is about £130, and about 1.5-2 hours for fitting