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done similar before, and some coilovers use a slotted hole for camber adjustment so a slotted hole isn't a bad thing, just make sure the bolt is done up tight

keep the megane head, don't allow yourself to downgrade all the other parts, fit the megane ECU if you need to

make them fit!!!

get a ph1 twin cat and it should lose a minimal amount

one idler is different in the kit, and therefore needs the correct spacer.

get down to Pro-speed, it's worth it

no, changes are minor

check for broken power wires. Alternator main power wire connector especially

hehe just kidding ;)

Filler is heavy ;)

hammer big one

certainly is

Re: Problem since changing the battery - Help? Bath earth? cold floors kill battery cells

it's only a few optional extras on a 1.2, it's called having a range ;) There's no 1.2s on here made to look like 1*2s at all are there :rolleyes:

Re: Problem since changing the battery - Help? Bath earth? sound like a rich misfire, possibly down to a weak spark. Was the old battery sat on the cold concrete floor? Also have a look at the power terminal onto the alternator as they're a common failure

i have old gasket scrapers i knock in as wedges, it's not uncommon for them to be fairly well stuck down

valver has a bolt through the middle of the tensioner that secures it. could be that it's come loose. no point asking TBH, have a look and see what's actually happened, speculation will likely lead you down many different incorrect routes

yup, might need a couple of relevant brackets, depending on year

the best response ever given to someone questioning stretched tyres.....

i kept the last pump i was asked to change as a spare for my own car, it was MINT, i advised not to bother and it was insisted upon

non sports all run the water pump off the cambelt, K-block engines are well known for pumps failing and seizing and taking out the cambelt. F-block pumps aren't like this until you get to the latest generation (F4P in the laguna, F4R 830 in the 197) D-block pumps dont really endanger much...

you have an airlock ;)

738 would be perfect, just have to block the vacuum pipe that goes to the carbon canister (or get a pipe from a 182, which is a bit pointless IMO)

mk1 rsi ;)

i did that once :o tensioner hits the head casting and doesn't turn

think it's 1.6 book time

i pretty much always go back and forth with spring loaded tensioners on everything to make sure it's not binding.

bit tighter, water pipes in the way and the tensioner needs a specific tool rather than an allen key, but very similar

pretty straightforward, I do about 4 a week. pin (m8 bolt) into flywheel locking hole, engine mount and belt covers off, aux belt off, bottom pulley off, de-tension cambelt and remove, check water pump for signs of ANY leak, replace if any trace of water/coolant (fairly common), fit new...

it's a c**t of a job, that engine is not a good design. The timing chain and tensioners and chain guide are a well known weak point, so they'd need replacing, and the timing wheel for the cam sensor is floating so you need special locking tools. Dreadful engine. Swapped an engine on one that had...